Developer-friendly / experimental branch (dataghost)

[deleted]

A few thoughts:-
Coriolis acceleration. The earth association in this context seems incorrect and some notes which appear to be relevant are at www.eng.auburn.edu/~ramada/mems/schedule.htm especially week 14 Notes. There also some useful notes on WIKI Coriolis. Google 'beam accelerometers'
Photo interpretation (S3is RAW)
If the photo showing the accelerometer is enlarged (500-1000% with Photozoom trial?) it seems the 'paired copper bits' (beams) suggest (to me) a piezoelectric beam measuring x, y motion about the optic axis by generating and measuring the Coriolis acceleration. I haven't worked out a convincing explanation of the parallel 'copper bits' but the literature lays emphasis on the drive and driven beams having similar natural frequencies. The pin joining the four beams is the means by which vibration is transferred (coupled).
Canon IS technology not much detail discovered except the IS lens is driven in x and y directions no rotation.

Bg~

Re: S3 pictures
The devices in the S3 pictures are definitely piezo gyroscopes. See NEC TOKIN Piezoelectric Devices for a somewhat generic explanation on how that particular type works. I think the basic gist is that piezoelectric materials generate electricity when they are deformed (in addition to deforming when an electric current is applied), the electrodes on those rods measure the change electricity generated due to rotation. The 'pin' is the actual measurement device, and the electrodes you see are just supporting the beam so it is free to vibrate. The IS system is driven by the two gyros sensing pitch and yaw motion of the camera which move the IS lens vertically and horizontally to compensate.

Canon BCTV Lenses: What is Optical Image Stabilizer?

LjL

I guess this helps explaining the sensitivity to magnets.

What I'd like the most to have explained, though (or at least given a working transformation to correct for it, but knowing the cause wouldn't hurt) is why 0 degrees is not the same as 180 for the sensor that's supposed to be on the vertical axis (and the same can be said for 90 and 270)...

toby

Omg!
I just found this topic and saw these videos.
Ithought "holy sh**".
That orientation-view is awesome, and so is your work. *thumbs up*
This looks like a horizon from a flightinstrument. How about creating a flightsimulation? *ggg*

What knowledge did u had to use to create the orientaton-view???

Greetz Toby

tgran

Am I missing something? It seems that the axis A and B outputs could be used as a camera trigger.

PhyrePhoX

yes, they could be 😀
one day the stuff from dataghost findings will end up in trunk, that is my prediction. but it needs time and dedication, as this is pure asm magic 😁

fe50

tgran
Am I missing something? It seems that the axis A and B outputs could be used as a camera trigger.

...a kind of "real" camera motion detection ?!

tgran

I can think of a few uses (I do KAP!), but a basic one would be:

1) Push shutter button
2) wait for minimum in angular velocity along the two axis (won't correct for rotation about optical axis)
3) take picture

There's an iphone application like this that allows people to take better pictures in low light without a tripod. That one uses accelerometers though.

jphphotography

Hey everybody I've just been scrolling through the pages here, this thread was referenced in another I was reading about disabling the camera's pre-flash.

I think this feature would be valuable to anyone wanting to use off camera lighting, there is a growing community of "strobists" out there (if you don't know what strobist is check out strobist.com its all about off-camera lighting)

Most of these "strobists" use flashes in manual mode, they just need a trigger flash to set them off. If the power could be controlled then all the better, probably wouldn't want it full strength so that it doesn't contaminate the shot but that could be worked around by obstructing the flash a little with kleenex or something to knock it down.

Anyway I just wanted to see what was up with this so please reply if you've got anything new.

Thanks!

Microfunguy

jphphotography
Most of these "strobists" use flashes in manual mode, they just need a trigger flash to set them off.

Are you concerned about preflash because it will trigger simple slave flashes ?
You can buy slaves that only react to the main flash.
Alternatively, a simple circuit using just three components will trigger your external/studio flash after a preset delay after releasing the USB remote switch.

jphphotography

Ok so it looks like I was wrong. I dismissed what was suggested in another thread because when I tried it I swore I saw the pre-flash still.

Anyway it appears that if you enable "force manual flash" and then set the power to any of the 3 settings (0,1,2) it only fires once. I was able to trigger my Nikon SB-600's properly using this method. I needed this for a DIY project I was working on a year or so ago, I was trying to make a multi-flash studio using disposable camera flashes (using an SCR and a small solar cell as the trigger) so that people would have a budget studio option. Looks like that project is back in action 😉

Microfunguy- your reply came through as I was typing this so its kind of a moot point but here goes anyway. The point was not to have to buy slaves that were designed to overcome this, from what I could see this feature was only available on the higher end ones. I have RF triggers and good strobes so I don't need this for my "real" photography, I was trying to come up with a solution to help get new photographers that are on a budget into the world of off camera flash photography.

I never realized that the usb remote switch could be configured as an output, that would definitely be another option. Thanks for the input!

fe50

jphphotography
Anyway it appears that if you enable "force manual flash" and then set the power to any of the 3 settings (0,1,2) it only fires once.

Yes, force manual flash just fires the flash with the choosen intensity (duration).
On cameras with adjustable flash intensity there' s also no pre-flash when the intensity is set manually.

Without CHDK, the Canon firmware normally use a pre-flash, at least in Auto / Easy modes...

Ailurus fulgens

PhyrePhoX coded the 'manual flash' feature with the strobist community in mind.

jphphotography

Thanks everyone, especially PhyrePhox. This is a great feature that I've been waiting a long time for, a friend was in a pinch and I gave her my SD1000 before I realized "oh ya that had CHDK on it" and my SD780IS was too new still for CHDK. I picked an SD1100 for dirt cheap and started trying to catch up on all the new CHDK developments since the last time I was using it 😉

Best of luck to all the programmers, I wish my programming skills were a little better so I could help the effort.

Cheers,

Bernd R

I have the idea to read out the IS value on a IXUS 1000 HS, so a photographer have better feedback if he hold the camera correct to fit best in IS range.

The thread is really old, in the last year is great progress to chdk done with the canon basic or lUA native.Are there also some newer IS read value software here ?

read also more in this thread.

https://chdk.setepontos.com/d/5781

arne182

fe50

jphphotography
Anyway it appears that if you enable "force manual flash" and then set the power to any of the 3 settings (0,1,2) it only fires once.

Yes, force manual flash just fires the flash with the choosen intensity (duration).
On cameras with adjustable flash intensity there' s also no pre-flash when the intensity is set manually.

Without CHDK, the Canon firmware normally use a pre-flash, at least in Auto / Easy modes...

I have tried this out on the G12 and have seen that in Auto mode on the 1.00G firmware it does not work the picture is not taken and the CHDK freezes the camera. How would I be able to help get this fixed?

Regards

philmoz

arne182

I have tried this out on the G12 and have seen that in Auto mode on the 1.00G firmware it does not work the picture is not taken and the CHDK freezes the camera. How would I be able to help get this fixed?

Regards

Provide detailed steps to reproduce the problem (Canon settings, CHDK settings etc).
If I can reproduce it on my G12 I can probably fix the crash.

Phil.

arne182

philmoz

arne182

I have tried this out on the G12 and have seen that in Auto mode on the 1.00G firmware it does not work the picture is not taken and the CHDK freezes the camera. How would I be able to help get this fixed?

Regards

Provide detailed steps to reproduce the problem (Canon settings, CHDK settings etc).
If I can reproduce it on my G12 I can probably fix the crash.

Phil.

Task: Take a photo with AUTO mode forcing the flash to fire.

1. Switch camera to Auto mode
2. Switch CHDK to Force manual flash and power of flash to 2
3. Try and take photo
What I get is the flash icon blinks and you can press and hold and no photo is taken.

Another maybe completely unrelated problem is the graphics window disapearing because of the eye-fi card wireless symbol apearing. As soon as the eye symbol moves the CHDK window disapears.

Would really like to help you guy to develop and get all the bugs sorted out.

philmoz

arne182

Task: Take a photo with AUTO mode forcing the flash to fire.

1. Switch camera to Auto mode
2. Switch CHDK to Force manual flash and power of flash to 2
3. Try and take photo
What I get is the flash icon blinks and you can press and hold and no photo is taken.

Ok, it's not actually crashing.
By using Auto mode you are confusing the camera - if Auto decides it wants to use the flash then the CHDK flash power override will work. If Auto does not want to use the flash it tries to turn it off; but CHDK is trying to turn it on - so the camera gets confused and won't complete the pre-shot exposure and focus calculations.

Use P mode instead.

Another maybe completely unrelated problem is the graphics window disapearing because of the eye-fi card wireless symbol apearing. As soon as the eye symbol moves the CHDK window disapears.

I'm assuming you are referring to the CHDK menus here?
Make sure you are using a recent version from the autobuild server - it should detect if the camera has erased the screen and redraw the menu.

Phil.

arne182

philmoz

arne182

Task: Take a photo with AUTO mode forcing the flash to fire.

1. Switch camera to Auto mode
2. Switch CHDK to Force manual flash and power of flash to 2
3. Try and take photo
What I get is the flash icon blinks and you can press and hold and no photo is taken.

Ok, it's not actually crashing.
By using Auto mode you are confusing the camera - if Auto decides it wants to use the flash then the CHDK flash power override will work. If Auto does not want to use the flash it tries to turn it off; but CHDK is trying to turn it on - so the camera gets confused and won't complete the pre-shot exposure and focus calculations.

Use P mode instead.

Another maybe completely unrelated problem is the graphics window disapearing because of the eye-fi card wireless symbol apearing. As soon as the eye symbol moves the CHDK window disapears.

I'm assuming you are referring to the CHDK menus here?
Make sure you are using a recent version from the autobuild server - it should detect if the camera has erased the screen and redraw the menu.

Phil.

So is there a way to force the flash to fire anyway in auto mode? In the other modes you can use the canon options to force flash but in auto that feature is not available. That is why it is important that it works on Auto mode.

CHDK menues yes, I am using 1386 from the autobuild could get 1388. I assume you don't have a Eyefi card. The wifi symbol is a constantly changing one and until it is finished uploading the photos the icon is constantly changing and on some occation it takes some or all of the menu with it. I have taken some pictures for you to see what I mean. It is especially bad when you are in the games option.

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