The DIY stuff

[albuemil]

Since it has been requested by a few people, i've decided i'd make a thread where there will be links most of the DIY projects (not related to the software part of CHDK but mostly to the hardware part).

So, here's what i've managed to find so far :

http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/topic,294.0.html - Building usb-remote-cable
http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/topic,1590.0.html - DIY wireless remote with a chinese door ring bell
http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/topic,1488.0.html - Creative underwater housing
http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/topic,1571.0.html - DIY.Housing for Ixus.
http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/topic,1843.0.html - HELP!!!... I am with eggs (with KISS setup) - or how to temporarrely attach a filter
http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/topic,1210.msg11699.html#msg11699 - How to make a card reader ignore "locked" button (in "can CHDK harm the memory card?" thread)

Other posts that could be helpfull:
http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/topic,1407.0.html - USB remote batteries wrong way. what would happen?
http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/topic,1405.0.html - Converting the camera to prime focus (as in electronic microscope)
http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/topic,982.0.html - Experience/Advice on using Adaptor Tube and Lenses/Filters
http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/topic,1839.0.html - s3is disassembled
http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/topic,498.0.html - hand (or glove) remote (still in "ideea format")

That's it for now, everyone, if i forgot about a post please post it here and i'll try to edit this first post and add it to the list.

P.S. a question to the forum mods, can we add links to other DIY sites/forums too ? I'm asking cause i don't want this thread to be considered advertising or SPAM.
P.S.2 could a mod make this "sticky" and if it's not in the right place move it where it should be ?

[yvesson]

Hej,
Thanks for having done that. Hope it'll get the sticky status as well.

I think it's okej and usefull to also post links to other places, anyway there are references to other sites (S3 disassembled for exemple).

Here is some guy having opened a A540 to remove the IR filter :
A540/A530 ir cut filter removal tutorial (pics) - Canon Digital Photography Forums
(maybe this has already been posted somewhere here but better have the direct link here anyway)

*edited*
Here are few more link which might be usefull :
Blog about repairing diff. cams and problems yourself
Disassemble A430
Disassemble A550/A560
Guy who disassembled many cams, incuding G7, and A70, A95, S45
Disassemble A650 IS

[acseven]

P.S. a question to the forum mods, can we add links to other DIY sites/forums too ? I'm asking cause i don't want this thread to be considered advertising or SPAM.

Yes, as long as this doesn't include stuff like "get this at this store", that should be fine...

Cheers

[RaduP]

And my DIY project, inspired by this thread: IR Remote using IR Helicopter

[djin]

Most of this DIY thread are about the remote... I found this one online, and the price is very very good, plus shipping is free, but I'd like to know if it would work with my Powershot A590 IS + CHDK... I haven't found anything online, perhaps someone has some info on that?


http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5577

[RaduP]

What remote did you find online? Link pls.

[djin]

[peabody]

This would not work on an A590.  It's an I/R remote control transmitter, but the A590 has no optical receiver, so this would not work.

[djin]

This would not work on an A590.  It's an I/R remote control transmitter, but the A590 has no optical receiver, so this would not work.

Aww shoot.. hehe well thnx for the info though =)

I hope it's useful for other people, looks great and the reviews on the website say it works like a charm.

[RaduP]

You can check my link in this thread on how to make your own IR remote for all the CHDK cameras. But it is a bit more expensive.

[Seagull]

New to the forums and relatively new and inexperienced with CHDK and also electronics.
Sorry about the long post and hope it is in order and in the right place.

I went looking for a instructions on building cheap wireless remote for a Canon point & shoot camera using the exciting CHDK remote shutter facility.

OK, I have searched the web and found many references to remotes for either
   (a)    More advanced Canon cameras that have a mini jack socket and or IR receiver built in to allow remote picture taking.
   (b)    Wired remotes utilizing the CHDK hack and the Mini USB socket.

But very few meeting my requirements for a wireless version.

Now on reading these and also the CHDK forums it seems that the voltage sensed from the USB connection  can be as little as 3 volts for some cameras, or as high a 4.5 volts for others. I have a Powershot 720 IS and it appears that it is unlikely to  function reliably operating at only 3 volts However any voltage above 5.5 volts might be dangerous to the camera.

Now checking relevant postings I found some references to using Chinese made wireless doorbells and RC model controllers.  As the doorbells were listed as operating on 3 volts and the RC models controllers were more expensive,  I seized on one article that mentioned the possibility of using a cheap [admin: avoid swearing please] or burp machine.

I found one on sale at  +machine&form=KEYWORD]http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=GH1088&keywords=[admin: avoid swearing please]+machine&form=KEYWORD

This one was powered by 4 AAA cells so the 6 volts looked a bit risky.  Because of this risk I put the burper away in a cupboard and forgot about it. However we are planning a trip and when travelling a remote could be very usefull so out came the burp machine and I set about modifing it.

Reviewing some articles I I checked http://www.hackersbench.com/Projects/ding-dong/main.html
which  commented on the likely waveform and then I found Philip Schutz description using and opto coupled triac (MOC 3020)
http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-make-a-remote-shutter-release-from-a-doorbell-diy-special

Using the MOC 3020 looked like it would solve the excess voltage problem, so  out came the soldering iron.
First I removed the speaker and connected the speaker wires to a LED. Pushing the remote button resulted in the LED glowing, but not that brightly, for about 2 seconds .

I decided to give it a try anyway and drilled holes and installed the opto coupler.  Luckily the battery holder had solder lugs at the end of each cell so tapping the coupled power supply at the 3rd cell (4.5 V) was easy.
Shaking in fear and trepidation I connected it all up and switched on the camera and receiver. Pushing  the remote button was followed a couple of seconds later by the camera's focusing beam coming to life and YES !.Success!  It took a picture. 
But, after 10 seconds or so it took another and then  another and so on ad infinitum?

After several more tries it took a picture and then semed to freeze with the recorded  picture showing on screen but I was getting no reaction to any camera controls until I switched the camera off or I removed  the USB plug.

My guess is that perhaps there is s some bounce in the switching from the MOC although connecting up a multimeter showed just a roughly 2 second pulse of 4+ volts but my meter has a very slow,  or nil, reponse  to transient spikes.

I have Canon 720 IS.... CHDK a720-100c-0.9.8-827-. Script Remote.bas   I have used the script with a wired remote switch 4.5 V  and it works as expected.
Help! Please, has any one got any ideas to solve my problem?


Setup:http://www.flickr.com/photos/38437603@N04/4092468356/sizes/o/

[whoever]

Help! Please, has any one got any ideas to solve my problem?

You tap the audio signal from the bell, right?

So, you're sending a ding-dong pulse train to the camera. Its brain hurts...

The simplest you could try is a capacitor as in the hackersbench link, and a ~1k resistor in series with the LED.

[Microfunguy]

any voltage above 5.5 volts might be dangerous to the camera.

No, it is not powering the camera or even any USB circuitry.
It is just a logic signal that tells the camera a USB cable is connected.
The signal is routed to some transistors via resistors of many kohm.
I regularly use a modified 6V mini torch.

This one was powered by 4 AAA cells so the 6 volts looked a bit risky.

No.  

Using the MOC 3020 looked like it would solve the excess voltage problem

There is no problem.

Success!  It took a picture.

Was the blue led lit and the screen blanked for the ten seconds ?



First of all, you do not need to use a script.

Download the DISKBOOT.BIN for your camera from this page http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/sdm/index.htm

Replace or rename the existing version.

Enter ALT mode, connect your receiver and press the switch.

Is the legend 'USB; displayed briefly at top left ?

You may need to try a few times.

Let us know what that does first.

You can also read this thread http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/topic,1590.0.html and check the links.


David

[Seagull]

[Microfunguy]

I saw  no message about USB appeared.

That suggests the pulse is very brief.

The  blue LED lights for the 10 seconds and the pictures are focused and look fine.

Normally, that means the software is waiting for switch release, especially if the viewfinder led shows the camera has autofocused.

That is SDM's  DIRECT shooting mode.
(the word DIRECT is for historical reasons, the switch operates the camera 'directly' without needing a script).

In the Bracketing/Override menu, set focus-mode to digiscope.
Exit ALT mode, the word FAST should be at top of screen.

In this mode the camera should trigger as soon as it detects the voltage.

Let us know how you get on.