building usb-remote-cable

[GrAnd]

Found business offer of IR controlled usb remote for CHDK
May be useful for KAP.
http://www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentled/chdk.htm

[Barney Fife]

Deleted

[jetzt]

Shouldn't be really a problem to do this, I think you need only basic electronic skills to do something like that,
right now I do it with my old unused Lego RCX Microcontroller and a small Voltage regulator.
But I'm sure that can be done with only a small rc5 receiver.

Right now I have other things to do: holydays end tomorrow, school is waiting for me 

[Barney Fife]

Deleted

[rhen84]

Witch switch should I use in the remote cable?

- Switch what close the curcuit when I push the button or
- Switch what close the curcuit when I push the button and hold closed til I push again or
- Switch what close the curcuit for a moment only?

whitch is the best for the remote cable?

[jetzt]

I used one which closes the circut only while pressed, when released, it disables the circut.
Works just fine.

[barberofcivil]

[Barney Fife]

Deleted

[barberofcivil]

[Barney Fife]

Deleted

[rocstar]

I built a cable using a USB cable, Altoids gum box (mini), 9V battery, and LM7805 5V regular.  On an SD850, the 3V button cell was giving me erratic results, and I needed 3.5-5V to trigger. I actually got really good results with a 7.4V battery (by accident), but I wasn't daring enough to keep using it. 

I do have a problem where sometimes when I press my USB remote, I get a half_shoot shutter condition, instead of a full shoot.  The meter box shows up on my screen, but I can't get it to take the shot.  Sometimes it works fine.  I can't tell if the problem is my USB cable which has extremely small wires.  It is the retractable type which doesn't work well for high speed transfer, which is why I sacrificed it.
Anyone else see this problem?

[jetzt]

I don't think that this is a cable problem, that's the big advantage of digital technology: either there is a signal or not,
so if your camera does something there has to be a signal.
What kind of skript do you use? In my opinion this can be the only problem.

[rocstar]

I am using the simple USB  script:
@title Remote button
:loop
wait_click 1
is_key k "remote"
if k=1 then shoot
goto "loop"
end

[rocstar]

I've done some testing, and my SD850 definitely seems to do better with 3.2V or better on the USB to work right.  With a brand new 2032 at 3.2V it worked for a few shots, and then the 2032 dropped to 3.1V.  Also with a mini-flashlight using 2-LR44 batteries at 3.1V, I could not get it to work.  With 3 LR44s at 4.5V, it worked fine, and with a LIPO at 3.7V it worked fine.
Here are some pictures of my Altoids trigger with a 5V regulator.  The erratic problem I was haven't hasn't resurfaced, but my camera battery was running low, so maybe that was the problem.  It's a little bigger than I wanted, but until I get a mini-flashlight which uses 3 LR44s this will have to do.

[databoy]

Regarding usb remote control; the following electronics sites in Australia have some information on infra red devices:

http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=Z1611#

Infra-red Detector:
Jaycar Electronics

I have not used the devices; therefore I cannot supply any more information. Both companies sell kit sets and components. I have purchased components from both companies; they are both reliable and helpful. An email to their customer service department may give you the circuits and technical details.