building usb-remote-cable

Microfunguy

photogo
The voltage has to be applied for about 2 seconds or so before the shutter fires

Without running any scripts, does the camera fire on shutter press or shutter release ?

Does the blue LED light and the screen blank ?

In CHDK, I do not think they use the same method as in SDM (which does not work with S2IS for synch shooting).

David

zcream

There are actually 5 different models at dealextreme under 5 bucks - search for remote shutter. Is there any one that does a one shot at about 3V for the trigger pulse..The battery can be modified for the voltage..
Has anyone used these for a remote before ??

showtest
Hello. First post here.
I've been reading up on this and have found the following item:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8257

I would assume this would work by simply converting the plug to a mini USB?

rmana

Here's my USB remote.

It's an old car alarm remote key. I took out most of the parts. What's left is the 12v battery in series with the switches and a 19K Ohm resistor (47k and 33k in parallel). This gives 3.8 volts on the G9 USB port. The G9 USB remote will not work with 3 volts.

I put a 1K resistor in series with the LED that was already on the remote key, so the LED lights when the key is pressed. Not really necessary, but adds a nice touch.

I used a PS2 mouse connector, simply because I had it lying around and a PS2 to USB adapter. This way I don't have to cut up any USB wires.

Rory

I know this thread is for those who want to build a remote. But, as a point of reference, you may want to look at the Ricoh CA-1 cable release, which works CHDK. It works on a single AAA battery. I have tested that it works on the Canon SX10 but cannot confirm it works on other cameras, although am told it does. It only seems to do a single shot. Haven't found a way for it to do continuous bursts or to zoom the lens. It has an on/off switch (I'm sure this could be adapted for a different purpose) and a main button which does a half and full press.

I bought it for $25 on Adorama. It's also at Popflash and on Amazon via Adorama.
http://www.adorama.com/IRCCA1.html?sid=20090407212745594zb&searchinfo=Ricoh+CA-1

Here's a page with some schematics used to adapt it for a different purpose but which might provide clues.
http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/sdm/ca1.htm

Hope people find this useful.

Image:
http://www.adorama.com/catlite.tpl?op=large_image&sku=IRCCA1.JPG

Microfunguy

Rory
It only seems to do a single shot. Haven't found a way for it to do continuous bursts or to zoom the lens.

Both of those functions are supported by 'StereoData Maker' (SDM), it is not just for stereo !

David

RSA

I don't know if this information will be of any use to anyone but I just wanted to contribute to the group and this thread to show my appreciation of the work others have done so that I can use CHDK and build this remote.

I started playing with CHDK a couple of weeks ago because I wanted to do a better job with some of my macro shooting and thought CHDK and some DOF stacking experiments might be the direction. I found this thread and read it backwards and forwards looking for ideas for building my own remote switch. Today I finally went to my local surplus electronics store looking for as long a USB cable as I could find with the Mini A connector and some kind of pocket flashlight with some kind of battery configuration that gave me 4.5v. Well I really lucked out and found a little utility or book light that ran on 3 watch batteries for $1.75. Also picked up a 6ft Type A to Mini A USB cable for $3.

(Not sure the best way to put photos or links to photos in the forum but here goes)

Here's what the flashlight looks like

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3529/3466829084_b06e13ab4f_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3661/3466013535_1727fa9eef_o.jpg

The front lens and led assembly unscrews to access the battery pack which is three AG13 watch batteries shrink wrapped providing 4.5v

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3528/3466829142_e8fc326367_o.jpg

Removing the LED assembly there were three LEDs soldered on a little circle printed circuit board

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3543/3466829180_0b943a01e7_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3554/3466013651_40d7aa7b7d_o.jpg

I un-soldered and removed two of the three LEDS. Since the switch on this light latches on and you have to push it again to turn it off I thought I'd leave one LED in to act as an power indicator.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3521/3466829228_35a78f6e99_o.jpg

Cutting off the Type A USB connector on the cable reveals the standard 4 wires in a USB cable. Fortunately for me the manufacturer of this cable followed industry standards for USB and the color coding of the wires was correct. I used this link to determine the correct pinout of the Mini A connector.
http://pinouts.ru/Devices/mini-USB_pinout.shtml
It can be a little confusing because USB standards describe only four wires but a Mini A connector has five connectors, pin #4 isn't used and pin #5 is called pin #4.

Red = +voltage(pin#1
Black = -voltage(pin#5 but called in#4)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3517/3466829258_8ea193e912_o.jpg

I trimmed back the braid shielding on the cable, cut off the green and white data wires, soldered the red and black wires onto the pc board making sure that I got the polarity correct. I created the sample remote.bas script file, copied it onto my SD card, crossed my fingers that my educated guess on the wiring was correct and plugged in the cable. Surprise, Surprise, after loading the script the cable did nothing? So now what's the problem? Well for some reason to start the script working I had to push on the camera's shutter button and then the remote button worked !!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3518/3466013731_b2113e933d_o.jpg

So now I have a remote switch with a handy clip to attach it to the tripod or whatever when not in use.

The camera that I'm using this on currently is a SD1000. I think that's about it. If anyone has any questions, shot me an email instead of posting. I'll get back to you quicker that way. I think that there's a way on this forum to send emails to people?

Mackly73

Dear all contributors,

because I'm wrong and I have posted my message in another place of this forum I leave the link for which is interested in another usb remote shutter (sorry for the inconvenience 😛 ):

https://chdk.setepontos.com/d/3521 :😀

Also, I want to say thanks to all peaple that have create this family!

Ruta9

Here's my remote shutter.
I know this is not the most beautiful remote cable ever, but I didn't spend a dime in the making of this device, I used some useless junk I had laying around in my house.

I used an old mouse for the clicker and took the USB ports from a broken motherboard.

I took the center button clicker out and put the usb ports in the middle of the mouse, the batteries are taped together in the bottom. I used 3 different sized batteries(1 was from the motherboard and the other 2 I had laying around) I used some rubber foam to hold the batteries together.

Then I took out the center button so the usb port can stick out of the mouse.

And Voila! I can shoot 2 cameras simultaneously. Left click and right click work perfectly.

I wanted to shoot one usb with the left click and the other with the right, but unfortunately both ports + and - contacts are connected so they shoot at the same time.

See it in action
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cyxkdYTnu0#

Ruta9

Hey guys, i made another shutter, this time I wanted to make it extra small so I can carry it in my camera bag or my pocket.
Also, I did't want to spend a dime making it.

So I took the cap from a bottle of spray deodorant

took the center button clicker from an old mouse(the one I used to make the shutter in my previous post)

I used 3 LR44 batteries. I took them from a laser pointer, they didn't have enough juice left to turn on the laser, but 4V is more than enough to shoot my camera.

Put it all together with a USB cable

And the result is the World Smallest (and cheapest) USB Remote Shutter

See it in action!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihbG79PQhPM#

wontolla

Nice! MacGyver-style remote.

RSA

Ruta9,

I've got to say that you won the prize for the smallest ugliest functional remote cable with this one! 😛 😁 😁

Good job!

djmramos

I made mine from a Motorola Phone Mini USB car charger that I'm not using anymore and an Energizer LED Keychain Light I bought at Target for $2. The mini USB charger cord is nice since it only has two wires in it (red and black) and NOT four wires so you don't have to worry about the other wires.

It has 3 A76 batteries in it which equates to 4.5V. This is perfect for my Canon A610 since the minimum required voltage to trigger it is 3V and it's going to be a long time before it goes down to less than 3V. Plus it will work on other Canon cameras that requires 4.5V.

It has two small screws at the back for access. I used pliers to break the lens of the LED and used its leads and solder them to the wires of the charger. Of course, I cut off the end with the cigarette lighter adaptor.

Take a look at the pics and if interested, it's only $2 at Target and some soldering work. It took me about five minutes to do it.

I hope people find this useful.

Dennis

RSA

djmramos/Dennis

Great job and thanks for sharing. It looks so good I'm going over to Target and see if I can find some of these myself.

Ruta9

djmramos
I made mine from a Motorola Phone Mini USB car charger that I'm not using anymore and an Energizer LED Keychain Light I bought at Target for $2.

It has 3 A76 batteries in it which equates to 4.5V.

Dennis

Dennis, that is a really cool looking remote shutter.
In fact, it looks so good, I took a page from your book and used an old LED flashlight keychain to modify The World Smallest Shutter I made a month ago, and made it even smaller!
Although I had to buy fresh batteries, so the other one is still the world cheapest. It has 3x AG3 Batteries, so it's really small, lightweight and portable.

BEFORE

NOW

Now it's not so bulky and fits better in my camera bag or pocket, it's easier to change the batteries,easier to press the button and looks better too.

Thanks for the idea Dennis

testerc

Hey folks. Is there anywhere that a Canon SX100 IS user can buy one of these?

Thanks.

Microfunguy

https://chdk.setepontos.com/d/3631/1

testerc

Thank you Microfunguy. I'll look into that.

I'd even be willing to use something like this if other's have used it successfully.
http://www.hama.de/portal/articleId*115098/picType*awd/action*2599?picURL=%2Fbilder%2F00005%2Fawd%2F00005345awd.jpg#picture

quixpeed

i wonder if CHDK can utilize any standard camera remote to be able to control the SX10 IS functions, such Zoom aside from shutter only....
even the provided software doesn't have a remote shooting utility .... !!!!! why ??

please advice ....

just look what i found
http://www.breezesys.com/PSRemote/features.htm#ps

Microfunguy

quixpeed
i wonder if CHDK can utilize any standard camera remote to be able to control the SX10 IS functions

No, they are just simple switches.
You need to switch a suitable voltage to the camera USB connector.

just look what i found
http://www.breezesys.com/PSRemote/features.htm#ps

You will find that I describe that here http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/sdm/upload3.htm

rkd

Hi, this is my first post here. I found this site after researching home built trail-cams. I am looking to build a trail cam using an Arduino board and a PIR sensor. I dont have a Canon camera and had a question about them and the CHDK software. If the camera was left on i am assuming it would go into "sleep" mode or power off with the lens open or something like that after a while. Would an input on the remote "wake up" the camera? Or does the camera have to be fully on to work with the software? If it can be woken up the board could be programmed to fire 2 imputs, one to wake the camera and one to take the picture after a set time. There are many sites out there that detail hacking a camera to by soldering wires directly onto the shutter contacts. I've done that and i dont like fooling around with the insides of a perfectly good camera, i'd like to be able to use the usb cable to keep the warranty valid, etc.
Thanks for any help.

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