building usb-remote-cable

waterwingz

robert.kuhl
It took me about half an hour. I don't know how to insert images so here's the link to the Picasa Album.

Looks like a really nice job - thanks for posting.

But did it really only take you a half hour ?

robert.kuhl

Thanks for posting the pics. yes, it went surprisingly fast. I forgot to make sure the hot side was pin 1, but I got lucky so I didn't have to resolder the leads. CHDK is a lot of of fun- a lot to learn- a bit like when I got my first 286 DOS computer. Have to find the board for scripts- the Motion Detection script keeps loading automatically so I had to delete it off the card, and I was getting some 'Luminence error", I think because of a conflict with exposure bracketing I had set. Anyway- great site/community, Hopefully I can contribute more although I'm not a programmer.

waterwingz

robert.kuhl
Have to find the board for scripts- the Motion Detection script keeps loading automatically so I had to delete it off the card...

Sounds like you have enabled script activation at startup. That has nothing to do with the motion detection script itself - you need to disable that function in the scripting menu.

Also, you might be interested to know that the USB remote code is completely rewritten in the development version of CHDK. Documentation is here : USB Remote V2

Downloads are available here : CHDK Dev Autobuild . Even though its the dev version, its not really any less stable than the official stable release.

robert.kuhl

Thanks- I've got an A2200, the 1.0 stable version build is still beta,so no Dev Autobuild yet, but thank you I'll keep looking it will be out sooner or later.

Major Bobbage

Hi All- FYI- I was having so many problems with my username and login (which I attribute to stupidly having started my account with the facebook option), that I have abandoned that account, started a new one using the regular process (with which I could choose a more anonymous username). So, if anyone has questions about that remote you can PM/email me through this new account. But it's pretty self explanatory and easy.

Super_Dork_42

Hello again people. I've been away from CHDK for a while, but thought I would return because I enjoy controlling my electronics rather than letting them control me. (Same reason I rooted my Android phone)
I still have the working cable I built, but I forgot what has to be done on the camera to set up remote usage. I have an a470. If I remember (and it could have changed) I have to put remote.(something) on the card in a specific place and do something in the menu. Is that still right?

waterwingz

Super_Dork_42
Hello again people. I've been away from CHDK for a while, but thought I would return because I enjoy controlling my electronics rather than letting them control me. (Same reason I rooted my Android phone)
I still have the working cable I built, but I forgot what has to be done on the camera to set up remote usage. I have an a470. If I remember (and it could have changed) I have to put remote.(something) on the card in a specific place and do something in the menu. Is that still right?

http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/USB_Remote_Cable
http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/USB_Remote_V2

Super_Dork_42

So if I get this right, it's all ready to go, just plug in and go to the menu and enable the remote?

EDIT : Yes, that was it. Now to search for how to make the thing boot into CHDK automatically.

waterwingz

Super_Dork_42
Now to search for how to make the thing boot into CHDK automatically.

http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/Prepare_your_SD_card#Bootable_SD_Card_Method

Summer

Hey There,

I made a simple IR remote for my SX40HS. I used the components from a toy called "GOBOTS" http://www.robotoys.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=2275&p_catid=38

All i did was remove the dc motor, and solder the (+) and (-) to the usb cord for the camera, using the pin outs from the CHDK quick start guide page 55. Upon initial testing the camera wouldn't fire when i tried the remote, i assume because the GOBOTS only supplies a quick 4.1V pulse to the camera. To remedy this i used the instructions from the quick start guide pg.56 under "Note:" which talks about enabling the sync delay. With this feature enabled i find i can press the button once and release, to focus, and then again and release, to take the picture. If you hold down the button the camera will continue to take pictures. I tried to attach some photos but i don't know if they will work, if not i'll try to find a way later 😀

As a bonus feature the blue eyes of this toy pulse when you press the button so if you're taking pictures at a distance you can confirm the picture was taken because the light will pulse also. I found i was able to trigger the remote from distances of 20ft. I added a lens to mine in order to focus the IR light on the sensor.

The GOBOT has a rechargeable 4.5V battery that you can charge using the remote which plugs into any usb port for charging.

I'm off to take some self portraits,

Cheers!

Summer

2 more photos of my remote 😀

bdusmc

Here's an idea for y'all... 😉

I just finished making this so I thought I'd share it. It's an LED closet light that is triggered by a magnetic thingy you put on the door. I found this in a box of junk in my storage room and I think I paid $2 for it a little while ago at Princess Auto (Canada).

Inside the light there is a circuit board (which contains the LEDs and "magnetic" switch) that the batteries connect to. I cut the circuit board off of the battery leads, put the battery leads in series with my USB cable and momentary NO switch. Easy peasy. Looks good too.

After making holes for the switch and USB cable and a little krazy glue to hold the cable securely, I put it together and tested it with my SD980IS/IXUS200 and it works like a charm.

What I like the most about it is that this thing will never have to be opened again unless the switch wears out, since the batteries (3x LR44/AG13) are behind a slide off cover.

I could have left one of the LEDs in the circuit, but I wanted nothing to be able to suck the batteries dry while it is in the camera bag if the switch gets pressed. Since there isn't a complete circuit when it's not connected to anything, the batteries should be safe when not in use.

Super_Dork_42

Pretty cool. Do you have any pics of the inner workings?

Also, I found the light on amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/Sunbeam-LED-Automatic-Closet-Light/dp/B001XQFCEO

bdusmc

Cool - yup, that's the one. And for only a penny, huh??? 😛

I tried to take it apart to get a pic of the inner workings, but the Krazy Glue I used to secure the cable must have run down to the clamshell seam a little, and I didn't want to wreck it to take a pic. Hopefully the switch doesn't wear out for a long time. hehe

This is literally all that's going on inside of the case - the blue wires were existing and went to the 2 terminals on the battery holder, and I could have/should have probably put a blocking diode inline on the negative lead, but I went with a big black "-" on the clear plastic instead.

Also note that the magnetic block near the bottom of the first pic was just there to show what was in the package... the block isn't used and was thrown away since the magnet was so weak, otherwise it could have been a fridge magnet.

Ironwave

Hi there.
I Was very glad to come across the chdk people and software.
Thus I wanted to add my 2 cents of help by posting my mod.

1 Acquire a remote form a auto shop that install alarms for vehicles, they are sure to have broken ones you can have for free.

2 Open it up, scrape all components off with a blade.

3 Cut circuits just beside the button and the LED. Its marked 1, 2, 3, 4, on the picture.

4 Connect or solder a wire from battery connection point to one side of button.
--- connect wire from other side of button to LED.
--- connect wire from other side of LED to MINI USB line (black)
--- connect MINI USB line (red) to remaining point that returns to battery.

When you connect it to your camera, and push it, the remote LED will go on. Not important, but nice in my opinion. It also shows one the battery's are still working.

Confirmed working on my SX40HS
Make sure of the battery voltages and polarity. I have TWO 3 volt battery's in my remote.
Take care and good luck.

Microfunguy

Hello and welcome.

That is a nice small remote.

Even though it probably does not bother you, have you been able to find very flexible USB leads ?

Ironwave

Flexible usb .... no.

But if it ever do bother me, I would probably use something like the very small earphone leads one get for cell phones for very very very cheap. Even a mouse wire will be nice i think. Im sure one can solder it to the usb ends, and one can insulate it well and neatly with heat shrink.
If you are interested I can post a few pics and try and help you with it.

Microfunguy

Thanks, but earphone leads is what I have used.

I was just wondering whether there were commercial flexible USB leads.

Ironwave

Don't have personal experience but google produced this find;

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1129

Hope it helps.

Google ultra thin micro usb for more finds.

SnowLeopard

Has anyone done any timing tests in order to determine what is the exact delay between the shoot/full-press signal and the image capture?
I'm using a laser-trigger remote very similar to this: http://www.glacialwanderer.com/hobbyrobotics/?p=11 and CHDK is configured for a OnePush switch with Normal control.
It all works (pre-focus and all), but there is a delay of about a third of a second between the shoot signal and the image capture -- the laser-trigger is about 50 cm above the where the picture of a falling object is landing, and any delay being introduced by the trigger is one millisecond or less.

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