i found e.g. this keychain-led-torch:
could this work?
just found this http://www.genius-versand.de/shop/product_info.php?ad=pr&products_id=19269 (http://www.genius-versand.de/shop/product_info.php?ad=pr&products_id=19269)
If you're feeling gutsy, I found making a wireless remote control not too difficult.
I had seen the instructions Fingalo had posted for his wireless setup. I couldn't find the hardware. Instead, I stopped at the toy store and picked up a $20 remote controlled car. Specifically found one which took AA batteries because I didn't want to deal with recharging issues. When I took the car apart, I found everything was embedded on one circuit board. Plus, the voltage going to the motors was just under 5 volts (4.5v and 3v, roughly). I wired one set of wires that went to the motor to a usb cable and the to the camera. It works great.
For something like this, I highly recommend using a multimeter to check the polarity and voltages to make sure everything is in range.
Regarding usb remote control; the following electronics sites in Australia have some information on infra red devices:
http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=Z1611#
Infra-red Detector:
Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?FORM=CAT)
I have not used the devices; therefore I cannot supply any more information. Both companies sell kit sets and components. I have purchased components from both companies; they are both reliable and helpful. An email to their customer service department may give you the circuits and technical details.
what the ideal pulse to trigger the remote software on a Canon S3ISAccording to my experience and our (still uncompleted) Camera Features page CameraFeatures - CHDK Wiki (http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CameraFeatures)
I could built the driver unit for the camera inside the case using a transistor to drive the 5volts to the cameraTriggering the base terminal of the transistor with 1.5V and get 3V from the battery. I think this transistor solution would be simpler/smaller than an op amp circuit.
Then just use a small laser pointer...Come on Barney!, now I won't be able to sleep tonight if I don't get that laser and find out if the MD can react to the beam and ignore a person's movement at the same time.
Regarding my previous post; what is the practical limitation to continuous photo shooting with a Canon S3IS via the usb cable?If I'm not mistaking, when you have the camera in continuous mode and hold your finger in the control button, it will keep shooting. I mean, while there is a voltage present at the USB cable, the remote control script will shoot indefinitely. I will try it tonight to make sure.
@title Remote button
while 1
wait_click 1
if is_key "remote" then shoot
wend
end
so how can i fix it? i really odnt want to take that box apart as im almost positive the solder on the switch will break (usb wire is VERY small and fragile). is it possible to buy a usb extension wire or something that would protect from a surge and limit the power?i dont get it, if 9v was going to kill the camera wouldnt it have done it already? what are the risks im running?
You may have been lucky so far. Many components are designed to take a small and momentary surge voltage, but they cannot tolerate extended operation at those higher voltages. So while it may have worked so far, one time you may leave your finger on that button just 1/10th of a second too long and there's goes your USB port (or camera).
Here is another idea for a wired and wireless remote in one.
i dont get it, if 9v was going to kill the camera wouldnt it have done it already?
so how can i fix it?You can make a simple voltage divider with two resistors. So instead of applying 9V you only send 5V to the camera and the other 4V dissipate as heat through one of the resistors. This is a "how to" I found Voltage Divider (http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/voldiv.html)
i replaced the 1K resistor with a 1M resistor: voltage drops down to around 4,5 - but that isnt enough for the cams to detect. so i replaced the 1M resistor with two 470k resistors (as in the picture), that triggers the cams but when i detect the voltage with voltmeter i still get 9V. either i'm dumb (long time ago i had physics in school about the exact same matter but i forgot...) or plain blind.
I didn't check the schematics so far, but did you first connect the tansitor the wrong way?yeah i think i used the voltmeter the wrong way, i'm not used to this "electronics stuff". however i think that i had the camera connected. on the other hand, the camera itself isnt really a "resistor" or consumer, is it?
Maybe it's gone than, but that's really only a "quick reply".
Edit1: How did you mesure the voltage, with camera connected?
Otherwise the full current has to go through the voltmeter and that's not how it should be?
I don't expect you mesured like that, but did you measure it like that?(pic1)
In that pic1 the value the voltmeter shows is only correct if the cam is connected.
(Remember your physic-edu-teacher: "You have to measure the voultage drop over an Resistor/consumer." :D)
However I would enjoy reading your results, and so I propose to put a potentiometer in to correct the daylight.
Like that you could adjust sensitivity.(pic2)
i replaced the 1K resistor with a 1M resistor: voltage drops down to around 4,5 - but that isnt enough for the cams to detect. so i replaced the 1M resistor with two 470k resistors (as in the picture), that triggers the cams but when i detect the voltage with voltmeter i still get 9V. either i'm dumb (long time ago i had physics in school about the exact same matter but i forgot...) or plain blind.
Hm... I'm not a hardware guy, but... If I'm not not mistaken, the using of a resistor leads to the limiting of the current. For voltage limiting the voltage divider (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider) is used. Or use a cascade of 6 diodes to reduce the voltage by 6x0.7=4.2V
Regarding cir.jpg.i dont need the led, i replaced it with the usb connector. i do have a zener diode somewhere in the kit, will check it out, thank yoU!!!.
The circuit you are using is just a simple light sensor circuit. Reduce the voltage to a six volt battery and reduce the 100k resistor to about 75k. The circuit is switching a led on or off. Do you really need the led in the circuit. If not, remove the led and put a 4.7 volt zener diode in its place. Increase the 1k resistor to a 5k resistor maybe 1 watt.
FOOTNOTE:
If you want to reduce the voltage in USB cable circuits; it is best to use a series resistor in conjunction with a zener diode. You will need one below 5 volts. A 5 volt regulator is not the ideal solution. They need tantalum capacitors either side of the voltage legs as close as possible to the regulator. Otherwise the regulators are know to become unstable.
This page will show you the range of zener diodes available:
Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?whichpage=2&pagesize=10&keywords=zener+diode&CATID=&SUBCATID=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&SPECIAL=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=)
9-Volts, not a good idea. Use some stacked button-cells or something else. Even 4 AAA NiMH batteries would be better, that will average at 4.8 to 5.2 volts total.
It's not too far-fetched that someone, someday, will find a way to tap into the microphone side of these cameras, and include things like a recording-volume meter, or ... more importantly, sound-triggered shutter capabilities.
It's not too far-fetched that someone, someday, will find a way to tap into the microphone side of these cameras, and include things like a recording-volume meter, or ... more importantly, sound-triggered shutter capabilities.
Here is another idea for a wired and wireless remote in one. I purchased a Skylink garage remote from Radio Shack. It needs a 12V power supply for the receiver, and you also need to provide 3-5V to the USB port. I used a 8xAA battery holder for the 12V, and soldered some wires to the leads for 3 of the batteries to give me 4.5-4.8V.
The Skylink unit basically closes a set of contacts but doesn't push any voltage through them. You can trigger via the button on the receiver, or with the small remote transmitter. It couldn't be easier! The remote unit cost $20. The battery holder was $2.
I now have a compact wired and wireless remote. I haven't tested the distance yet, but I would suspect that it is at least 70-80 feet.
Now I just need to buy an S2 IS to go with my SD850. Anyone have one for sale? ::)
Check the UBASIC/TutorialScratchpad - CHDK Wiki (http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/UBASIC/TutorialScratchpad) page and look at the differences between shoot and click/press/release "shoot_half" / "shoot_full" commands. The most simplest USB-Remote scripts only use the shoot command. Using more elaborate script commands is how you get more control over your camera with CHDK. CHDK is not meant to be used just by itself (though it can be, with limits). It's a system of both scripting and the CHDK operating system.
@title Remote Button
while 1
wait_click 1
if is_key "remote" then shoot
wend
end
@title Timeless Lapser
@param a Interval (Seconds)
@default a 10
print "Timeless Lapser!"
rem shot counter
b=0
:looper
b=b+1
cls
print "Shot ", b
print "0 seconds until next"
shoot
rem routine to pause in a way that will show countdown on console
x=0
:pauser
r=a-x
x=x+1
cls
print "Shot ", b
print r, "seconds until next"
wait_click 1000
if is_key "remote" then x=a
if x < a then goto "pauser"
goto "looper"Those are nice photos and schematic but I am wondering if you took any photos of how you soldered everything together and how that looks on the inside.No pics form the inside, but it's really very simple, just stick to the schematic. The box I used is screwed together and I will only open it again to change the battery, but that will be a loooong time (at least 30000 remote captures, I don't know if I'll ever reach that number)
I am looking for a box that it is easy to open and replace a battery if I had to instead of unscrewing everything.
Like databoy said, a zener diode is the best way to do this. Have a look here (http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/powersup.htm), near the bottom of the page for a schematic.Actually using a linear regulator like the 7805 is much more reliable and simple. You don't have to "guess" any part values like you just did and it is much easier for beginners to use in their own circuits. The linear regulator will also output to specification independent of other parts being added to the circuit. These and other advantages make linear regulators much more preferable over rather primitive zener diodes.
Since we don't know the specs on the cameras, it's hard to say what resistor value to use, but a 50-100ohm, 1/2watt resistor should work well. Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, though.
I do not know where you obtained your electronics knowledge from.10+ years of actual experience.
The USB 5 volt supply is filtered and certified.Have you ever actually tested todays cheap mainboards USB voltage? It is far from stable. Device designers know about that and build USB devices with appropriate tolerance. There is no way my circuit could ever damage my camera. Have you read peoples reports on this very forum that they are triggering their cameras with 9V straight without ill effects?
Part of schematics of some DIGIC2 camera (attached). RN4983 has 10 V maximum input voltage.
can it be assumed that all these chdk cams can withstand 10 V at max then? if yes, this should be added to the wiki and the first post of this thread very fast :D
Aristoc - I coudln't really tell from that link how you built yours (yes, I have a short attention span), but I gather from the picture that you used a voltage regulator. I did the same and have been using it absolutely without incident on my S3. I've probably pressed the button 500 times.
@title Remote button
while 1
wait_click 1
if is_key "remote" then shoot
wend
endyou need to run this script:
I just created a page on the wiki. Pauls, I hope it's ok that i used your image.Yup - no problem A_Str8.
I have CHDK compatible, wireless shutter remotes. These are professionaly designed, built to order modules. I will happily give away the design files in the spirit of open source. Assembled modules cost $50.00.
Email: [email protected] for design files, photos, or if you are interested in purchasing a complete module.
Technical Specs:
over 100ft wireless range.
Does it work with the current SDM software?
What transmitter and receiver modules are used ?
Could I possibly cascade multiple hubs to trigger say sixteen cameras?
I just want to make sure that 6V isn't going to kill my camera.
CameraFeatures - CHDK Wiki page lists 5-6V OK/Wake-Up:Perhaps there is a fault? Or another camera revision?
Thanks jetzt ......Nothing to thank for, I just wrote up the options I thought of when I wanted to build my "remote measurement station".
I'm just exploring posibilities right now, as I'll need to set up 10 of these things, so if I there's another camera that I could use which DOES power up via the USB port, that would be my preferred option. I will however check out the servo rigs you mentioned, as that is probably a viable third option.
Cheers
JB
... I will set up a solenoid trigger like the one described here: ...Ah he finally decided to take the hardware solution. I think you should add some photoresistor infront of an led, so you can be sure if the camera has really been on.
I've short-circuited something & it won't even power upAh, I warned you, don't press the battery pads to the connections of the flashcapacitor! :lol
The only possibillity (without soldering cables to the cameras power switch or using a mechanical solution) could be the following:
When the camera is powered-on and then the battery door is opened and closed again, the camera start & runs the script.
The camera remembers the last operating state (in this case power-on) and start when the door is closed again.
For this no USB remote is necessary, a simple script could do it - but if the camera once is powered-off regularly it do not power-on again when the door is opened / closed...
No, not an option on the Ixus 860 (SD870)...The only possibillity (without soldering cables to the cameras power switch or using a mechanical solution) could be the following:Would it be an option to use the external power cable instead of opening or closing the battery door?
When the camera is powered-on and then the battery door is opened and closed again, the camera start & runs the script.
The camera remembers the last operating state (in this case power-on) and start when the door is closed again.
For this no USB remote is necessary, a simple script could do it - but if the camera once is powered-off regularly it do not power-on again when the door is opened / closed...
A timer will feed the power long enough for the camera to run a script to take a picture then power off before the cam autoshut off.
Can anyone give me schematics for A460? And/or a detailed how-to guide?
(It would be good to have a wiki on usb remotes)
anybody in Europe building good quality remote cables?
@title GT Remote
:loop
wait_click 1
is_key k "remote"
if k=1 then click "shoot_full"
goto "loop"
end
I have had success using a cable release on the G9 without CHDK.Hmmm .... I have never heard of that before.
When I use this cable release on a friends G5 it switches between record and review modes.
by connecting the camera to a computer, the computer automatically switches the camera to review.
Thus their is no foreseeable way to have a cable release work without CHDK.
@title Remote button
:loop
wait_click
is_key k "remote"
if k=1 then "shoot_full"
goto "loop"
end @title Remote button
while 1
wait_click 1
if is_key "remote" then shoot
wend
endWhen menu option 'USB Remote' is enabled, we set that memory location back to '0' one hundred times a second, so the Canon firmware never knows the USB is connected and does not switch to playback mode.
Does any one know the Minimum USB-Remote Volts for the 590IS? Thanks
Is it supposed to work with all CHDK versions?
Is it supposed to work with all CHDK versions?
I could not get it working with SDM, I gave up.
David
... set that memory location back to '0' one hundred times a second, so the Canon firmware never knows the USB is connected and does not switch to playback mode.is not doing that on my camera.
what you mean by enabling menu option 'USB Remote'?
What else could I be doing wrong
So...If I had a 6V battery, anybody knows which resistor do I need in order to get a 5V voltage so I'm not out of the range permitted for a A590?.
If I had a 6V battery, anybody knows which resistor do I need in order to get a 5V
Assuming other cameras are similar to the ixus65, the exact USB voltage is not critical.
For example, on the ixus65 the voltage is applied to the base of the first transistor in a pair via a 10K resistor.How can we know the resistor correspondant to a 590 in order to be sure that we are in the same conditions that in the ixus one?
Assuming other cameras are similar to the ixus65, the exact USB voltage is not critical.Thank you for your comprehension.
But isn't there voltage coming out of the USB cable even when its in remote capture mode?The camera's USB port is NOT an USB host and does not supply power - you need "external" power to let the camera notice a connected USB device...
Looking into the wireless sd cards...You guys know of these?
The voltage has to be applied for about 2 seconds or so before the shutter fires
Hello. First post here.
I've been reading up on this and have found the following item:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8257 (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8257)
I would assume this would work by simply converting the plug to a mini USB?
It only seems to do a single shot. Haven't found a way for it to do continuous bursts or to zoom the lens.
I made mine from a Motorola Phone Mini USB car charger that I'm not using anymore and an Energizer LED Keychain Light I bought at Target for $2.Dennis, that is a really cool looking remote shutter.
It has 3 A76 batteries in it which equates to 4.5V.
Dennis
i wonder if CHDK can utilize any standard camera remote to be able to control the SX10 IS functions
just look what i found
http://www.breezesys.com/PSRemote/features.htm#ps
i wonder if CHDK can utilize any standard camera remote to be able to control the SX10 IS functions, such Zoom aside from shutter only....
even the provided software doesn't have a remote shooting utility .... !!!!! why ??
please advice ....
just look what i found
http://www.breezesys.com/PSRemote/features.htm#ps
You'll be amazed at all it can do. FAR beyond the capabilities of anything that CHDK has done so far for tethered remote shooting.
Can anyone tell me if you connect the switch if you can get audio and video from the other two wires?In short - no. The other two wires carry USB data.
is there any way to get the camera to instantly take pictures when pressing the remote?
@title Remote Burst
:loop
wait_for_switch_press
press "shoot_full"
:loop1
do
until not (is_key "remote")
release "shoot_full"
release "shoot_half"
goto "loop"
The scripting procedure is the same on SDM and CHDK right?
Save it as a plain text file with the extension .bat.
I do not know anything about Mac computers and whether you have to do anything 'special'.
David
should that be .bas for UBasic ?
The script is waiting for you to press the remote switch.
@title Remote Burst
sync_off
:loop
line_1 " Waiting for switch press"
wait_for_switch_press
press "shoot_full"
:loop1
do
line_1 " Waiting for switch release"
until not (is_key "remote")
release "shoot_full"
release "shoot_half"
goto "loop"
Right on! That ones working!Good !
I'll get back with further results soon as the snow is gone :xmas
since I wont be taking any stereo images I thought it might be easier just use the regular CHDK.
@title Remote Burst
:loop
print "Waiting for switch press"
do
until is_key "remote"
press "shoot_full"
do
print "Waiting for switch release"
until not (is_key "remote")
release "shoot_full"
release "shoot_half"
goto "loop"
For a variety of reasons it seems to me CHDK will be more suitable for my skydiving project.
I found no user menu feature in the SDM.Although a useful feature for some, this will not be supported by SDM.
As mentioned, the script used in SDM shot the first image in a burst at automatic shutter speed also when set in tv-mode. No idea why but CHDK did not.I will check that.
I could not access the regular canon menu when having the SDM installed. It also showed the pictures taken upside downThe two 'problems' are related.
The toggle wheel on my Ixus870 did not work to scroll the menus with in SDM.No, that is not supported.
I use a mac, which made the installation of CHDK much easier than the SDM
The statement was based on the info on the SDM installation page
If you like I could make a try installing SDM from my mac and come back.
Hey i was wondering if these could be used to create a wireless remote: LED keychain light, IR LED, IR receiver module.
What do you think? (put the IR LED in the keychain light, hook the IR receiver to the usb remote cable assembly, etc.)
So, I think maybe this thread went dead.
I was thinking of doing it with one of these:
http://www.altex.com/Velleman-Slim-Line-LED-Light-with-Keychain-LLW5-P143979.aspx (http://www.altex.com/Velleman-Slim-Line-LED-Light-with-Keychain-LLW5-P143979.aspx)
http://www.altex.com/Coast-Cutlery-Small-LED-Flex-Light-TT7582CP-P143984.aspx (http://www.altex.com/Coast-Cutlery-Small-LED-Flex-Light-TT7582CP-P143984.aspx)
would one of these work?
frans, if I send yoou my 25 ft cable, how much (USD) would it be to get you to make it for me?
As a side note, I am thinking how weird it is that on a thread called BUILDING USB-REMOTE-CABLE, how many suggestions involve NOT building, but buying one.
@microfunguy, are you sure? It runs on a single AAA battery. Is that enough voltage?
Well, they are sending me another soldering iron for free, so I guess that part is solved, just have to wait two or three weeks for it to get here, leaving me plenty of time to go buy a light.
Nice. But what does the button there do?
Got the light. Thanks fvdk.
I don't have pre-flash ?
The remote should give one press for focus & second press for shutter release.
So I was wondering if the slave could be hard wired to go off at the second press ?
Hi Frans
Just some battery info.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_battery_sizes (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_battery_sizes)
You have used the AG1 alkaline battery for this remote. They are fine.
The alkaline battery has 1.5v & 13mAh & a tapering discharge.
The silver oxide battery has 1.55v & 20mAh & a flat discharge.
May I suggest SG1 silver oxide batteries, as they keep the voltage constant to the end, which I think is important in this application as the cameras are sensitive to lower voltage.
Cheers
Col
Hi Frans Thanks
You must have had a sore finger after all that testing :-))
Cheers
Col
the cable width between the cameras, which gives 94mm centres. Is that OK ?
Both are different versions
So depending on the filter you can capture IR or Visual light or the lot !
I don't need quartz lenses !
...
When +5V is connected to the USB, a signal goes to the DIGIC chip and the firmware sets a particular location in memory to indicate the +5V is present.
The Canon firmware switches to playback mode and tries to communicate with the PC when it sees that memory location is set to '1'.
Your computer may respond to the camera communication by starting a designated programme.
That programme may be Canon ZoomBrowser or it may be any other designated programme.
Now, to use a USB remote we need to stop all of this from happening.
When menu option 'USB Remote' is enabled, we set that memory location back to '0' one hundred times a second, so the Canon firmware never knows the USB is connected and does not switch to playback mode.
i was wondering if any of the wireless remotes available (like Opteka RFT-40 Remote Shutter Release) can be adapted to be used with CHDK.
Then, can i use that switch on another circuit on, which has enough voltage?
Then, can i use that switch on another circuit on, which has enough voltage?
Yes, that's possible. See:
http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php?topic=5383.msg54209#msg54209 (http://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php?topic=5383.msg54209#msg54209)
Following advice from a post here, I bought this wireless remote:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wireless-Remote-Shutter-Canon-400D-350D-450D-R6D-/220561865886?pt=UK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL&hash=item335a82fc9e (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wireless-Remote-Shutter-Canon-400D-350D-450D-R6D-/220561865886?pt=UK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL&hash=item335a82fc9e)
Turned out that the switches connect to battery negative, and the 3V battery was enough to trigger my S3IS, so I removed the existing cable, glued in a USB socket (just enough room) and connected the appropriate USB pins to battery + and the first switch output. Job done!
I am not sure what the function of that is! is it a ready wireless remote? or is it the switching circuit that is necessary with an additional remote?
QuoteI am not sure what the function of that is! is it a ready wireless remote? or is it the switching circuit that is necessary with an additional remote?
It can be used on it's own as a cable remote (if you solder a USB cable to the + and - pads).
But you can also use the 2.5mm female jack to plug in an additional wireless remote.
*Eventually finds the camera features page on the Wiki* http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CameraFeatures (http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CameraFeatures)Following advice from a post here, I bought this wireless remote:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wireless-Remote-Shutter-Canon-400D-350D-450D-R6D-/220561865886?pt=UK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL&hash=item335a82fc9e (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wireless-Remote-Shutter-Canon-400D-350D-450D-R6D-/220561865886?pt=UK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL&hash=item335a82fc9e)
Turned out that the switches connect to battery negative, and the 3V battery was enough to trigger my S3IS, so I removed the existing cable, glued in a USB socket (just enough room) and connected the appropriate USB pins to battery + and the first switch output. Job done!
This is what i was hoping for. You think this will work with SX20IS or SX30IS?
*Eventually finds the camera features page on the Wiki* http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CameraFeatures (http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CameraFeatures)
Looks like the SX20 needs 3.4 volts, so the simple approach won't work there. You'd need an additional battery. The SX30 doesn't seem to be listed there.
I built a USB remote last night (using an LED flashlight with 3 button cells), and while it works fine to trigger the shutter, the cameras flash does not flash even in low light.Because the problem happens with and without CHDK, I'd suspect a camera setting. Your camera has the ability to set your flash to "Auto", "On", "Slow Sync", or "Off", I'd look at that first to see if it is set to "OFF". There is a photo in your Canon SX130IS Users Manual on page 159 that shows how it would look if it is set to off (item#16 on the photo). Hope this helps!
Is this normal behavior, or do I have something not set right (either in CHDK or on camera firmware)?
I'm using a canon sx130IS, with a not-yet-beta version of chdk ported to this camera. Even without CHDK running the flash does not flash, but the shutter triggers. Any ideas?
You should also take a look here http://www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentwire/usb.htm (http://www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentwire/usb.htm)Awesome! This is just what I was looking for! Now, what I need to know is how do I script the functions? I am not familiar with scripting whatsoever, but I can learn. Where can I find the scripting info to trigger the shutter and zoom?
James Gentle's devices are widely used for Kite Aerial Photography.
as yet the SX30 is not supported by SDM
Hi Everybody.Welcome to CHDK! You have the correct forum if you want to build your own USB remote switch. There are a number of versions in the presious posting of this forum that should work.
I'm new to CHDK having just installed it on my Canon PowerShot A570is. I'm interested in making a USB remote trigger so that I can use it when digiscoping. Mechanical remote cable releases are, at best, awkward and clumsy and the USB route seems to be the right way to go. Can anyone help?
Will appreciate any help and advice.
Many thanks
BillPCT
http://tinyurl.com/5ruu9n5 (http://tinyurl.com/5ruu9n5)Your link gives me the "Welcome to Windows Live" sign-up page.
I have an extra cable for my SX 120 IS but it has the hump in it...(see picture). Can I use this to make a remote, or do I need to buy another cord?? Please help...Thanks...
Yup - ferrite bead. This will work fine for a remote control.
Is there anyplace where a pre-made USB Remte Shutter cable can be bought???Google the Ricoh CA-1.
It being 3.7v, it was perfect for both my PowerShots; my old A530 and my new SX150 IS. I then soldered in the push-button switch, but I also added in a 2-way switch. When turned on, this switch will charge the battery when the cable is plugged into a USB power source (it also works for taking continuous shots when in continuous mode). This switch is show here:
Charging your battery with 5V from the USB port is a very bad idea and might cause the battery to explode and set your house on fire.
1. The output voltage for most cell phone chargers is 5v, as I confirmed it is with the charger from my old phone (which is where the battery I used came from).But is that the voltage the "charger" supplies to the cell phone or the voltage that the cell phone actually uses to charge its internal battery ? The phone may very well internally "step down" the voltage it uses to charge the battery or (even better) the phone may control the charging current, allowing the charge voltage to float just high enough to maintain a safe charging current.
But is that the voltage the "charger" supplies to the cell phone or the voltage that the cell phone actually uses to charge its internal battery ? The phone may very well internally "step down" the voltage it uses to charge the battery or (even better) the phone may control the charging current, allowing the charge voltage to float just high enough to maintain a safe charging current.
Manufacturers use the charging temperature to intelligently fast rapid charge the Li-ion battery within the manufacturers’ specifications.
@NightPhotoNoob,
This is a public forum where people ask for advice. Conduct some basic scientific research before you post.
Ignorance is bliss until a fire occurs or worst the Li-ion battery explodes injuring people.
It is very obvious from your comments that you possess no electronics experience.
fvdk’s post is correct and you are wrong in your assessment’s of fvdk’s post.
Five volts DC is the charging voltage. What causes Li-ion batteries to heat up and explode is the charging current. Li-ion chargers use specialised switched mode charging chips. Depending on the consumer device the charger may be built into the charging device or the consumer device. In a lot of cases the actual Li-ion charger circuit is built into the consumer device for the simple reason that the charger chip can monitor the Li-ion battery charging temperature. Manufacturers use the charging temperature to intelligently fast rapid charge the Li-ion battery within the manufacturers’ specifications.
There is one certainty.
A USB port does not contain an intelligent Li-ion charger circuit.
Long term there is no guarantee that charging a Li-ion battery from a USB port without the use of a specialised Li-ion switched mode charging chip is a reliable and safe method of charging a Li-ion battery.
The issue with charging Lithium-Ion batteries is very real - they *will* explode if mistreated. You don't have to do much to set one off, and charging beyond 4.2V is pretty much a guaranteed method of doing it.
Proper chargers follow a very specific constant-current then constant-voltage charging regimen, and if you don't have the proper electronics to follow that, the *only* safe way to charge is with a constant voltage under 4.2V, which excludes direct USB connection.
That said, you can get tiny and very cheap (under a couple of dollars) usb phone battery chargers from ebay or dealextreme, which you can use to safely charge one of these batteries.
Charging your battery with 5V from the USB port is a very bad idea and might cause the battery to explode and set your house on fire.
I must say I find the above comment quite insulting, for three reasons:
1. The output voltage for most cell phone chargers is 5v, as I confirmed it is with the charger from my old phone (which is where the battery I used came from).
2. I am not foolish enough to leave the battery charging unattended or for prolonged periods of time.
3. The above YouTube clip was of somebody that was INTENTIONALLY blowing up Li-ion batteries, and for all we know he could have been charging them with 10x the designated operating voltage.
If I should stop posting within a few weeks I have probably died of Li-ion toxicity or burnt my house down. If that happens I will be sure to modify my USB remote accordingly. Thank you for your concerns.
P.S. Despite feeling slightly insulted by your comment, I do appreciate the constructive criticism.
Personally, I would trow it away as....In most parts of the world, you are not even supposed to do even that. Lithium-ion batteries are supposed to be returned to an approved recycle / disposal center.
Personally, I would trow it away as....In most parts of the world, you are not even supposed to do even that. Lithium-ion batteries are supposed to be returned to an approved recycle / disposal center.
Personally, I would trow it away as it is impossible to say if any potential harm has been done to the internal insulation of the battery. If you have another one lying around than you now are well enough informed about how to use it safely but if not, I really see no reason why you should not build a better remote with the use of an LED light or a cheap 3 or 4 AA or AAA battery box.
Personally, I would trow it away as....In most parts of the world, you are not even supposed to do even that. Lithium-ion batteries are supposed to be returned to an approved recycle / disposal center.
You are right and I didn't mean it literary, I should have said something like "properly dispose it".
For anyone interested, here are two actual incidents with pictures of Li-ion cells exploding inside a flashlight which than more or less becomes a pipe bomb.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?262234-TK-Monster-Explosion (http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?262234-TK-Monster-Explosion)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?280909-Ultrafire-18650-3000mA-exploded (http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?280909-Ultrafire-18650-3000mA-exploded)
Such incidents are rare but it is exactly the reason why I don't take any risk with Li-ion cells and why I use only the best available protected cells and chargers.
Such incidents are rare but it is exactly the reason why I don't take any risk with Li-ion cells and why I use only the best available protected cells and chargers.The airlines have stated that LI-ion batteries are not to be placed in checked luggage. I'm not sure how a fire in your carry-on bag is better than one in a checked bag but maybe there is a chance to extinguish the one in a carry-on bag.
NightPhotoNoob
Cellphone batteries have 3 terminals:
(+) (-) and 3th terminal is used from Cellphone to control when to interrupt charging.
Interrupting occurs when battery reach 4.2 or 4.3 V.
The simple chargers are designed to charge with current between 250 and 450 Ma.Output voltage 5 to 6 volts.But the charger is designed also to limit the charging current in above limit.
Inside in most batteries is placed simple electonic circuit wich interact with the phone by 3th terminal to stop charging when upper limit of voltage is reached (max 4.3v)... in most cases 4.2 V.
Li-Ion batteries charged to 4.2 v are not full charged - only 70%.But this is very safe and keep from accidents with battery.
When 4.3v is reached charging must continue for full charge by special manner-NOT in CELLPHONES, but in special chargers.
This 4.3v is max voltage for Li-Ion and safe they longlife.Above this is also dangerous...
====================================================
You must charge with current not above 450 Ma -500 Ma (can be less) watchig with voltmeter in the hands when voltage will gain 4.2-4.3 v and immediate interrupt the charging.Overcharge is dangerous, and if not happened explosion e.t.c. this shorten battery life.
If the current is many above 450 Ma simply use R (Resistor) several Ohms (depend of chargers output voltage) in series with any of wires to limit the current.Less current - long time to charge to 4.2V...and more safe !
Have success !
Li-ion cells are fully charged at 4.2V but most chargers will slightly undercharge to 4.1 - 4.19VNo, I'm not agree that not only from my experience long years.Anothers sources (many sources) said 4.3 v
POWER STREAM PAGE
Lithium-ion Battery Charging Basics
Lithium Ion Charging
Basics
These remarks apply equally to lithium ion and lithium polymer batteries. The chemistry is basically the same for the two types of batteries, so charging methods for lithium polymer batteries can be used for lithium-ion batteries.
Charging lithuim iron phosphate 3.2 volt cells is identical, but the constant voltage phase is limited to 3.65 volts.
The lithium ion battery is easy to charge. Charging safely is a more difficult. The basic algorithm is to charge at constant current (0.2 C to 0.7 C depending on manufacturer) until the battery reaches 4.2 Vpc (volts per cell), and hold the voltage at 4.2 volts until the charge current has dropped to 10% of the initial charge rate. The termination condition is the drop in charge current to 10%. The top charging voltage and the termination current varies slightly with the manufacturer.
However, a charge timer should be included for safety.
The charge cannot be terminated on a voltage. The capacity reached at 4.2 Volts per cell is only 40 to 70% of full capacity unless charged very slowly. For this reason you need to continue to charge until the current drops, and to terminate on the low current.
It is important to note that trickle charging is not acceptable for lithium batteries. The Li-ion chemistry cannot accept an overcharge without causing damage to the cell, possibly plating out lithium metal and becoming hazardous.
The question occasionally comes up "What is the effect of charging with less than 4.2 volts?" Unlike other battery chemistries the battery will charge, but it will never reach full charge, it will only be partly charged. The reason for this is that stuffing the ions into the anode or cathode crystals requires more voltage than the simple electrochemical cell voltage. The higher the voltage the more ions can be inserted. The page linked page here some quantitative data on the relative capacity of lithium-ion batteries that are charged below 4.2 volts.
Charging Lithium ion batteries at slow rates
When the charge rate during the constant current phase is low, the charger process will spend less time during the constant voltage tail. If you charge below about 0.18 C, the cell is virtually full when the 4.2 volts is reached. This can be used as an alternative charge algorithm. Just charge below 0.18C constant current and terminate the charge when the voltage reaches 4.2 volts per cell.
Safety
Every lithium ion battery pack should have (must have?) a safety board which monitors the charge and discharge of the pack, and prevents dangerous things from happening. The specifications of these safety boards are dictated by the cell manufacture, and may include the following:
Reverse polarity protection
Charge temperature--must not be charged when temperature is lower than 0° C or above 45° C.
Charge current must not be too high, typically below 0.7 C.
Discharge current protection to prevent damage due to short circuits.
Charge voltage--a permanent fuse opens if too much voltage is applied to the battery terminals
Overcharge protection--stops charge when voltage per cell rises above 4.30 volts.
Overdischarge protection--stops discharge when battery voltage falls below 2.3 volts per cell (varies with manufacturer).
A fuse opens if the battery is ever exposed to temperatures above 100° C.
@fvdk,QuoteLi-ion cells are fully charged at 4.2V but most chargers will slightly undercharge to 4.1 - 4.19VNo, I'm not agree that not only from my experience long years.Anothers sources (many sources) said 4.3 v
I"ve croped this from Power stream site long time ago (have not link...sory):
Edit1 - In the my link above is clearly mentioned that inside every battery have protected circuit agaist overcharging and discharging ! I"m right... right ?... (smail...)
You should understand the difference between a battery (multiple cells combined in a package) and single cells
Sounds like you've got a normally-closed switch. You need a normally-open one.
ryandigweed,
You should get a 'momentary' switch ... normally 'off', current flows only as long as you press, so a quick press/release triggers the camera. (Just like operating the shutter button.)
Have a look here: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/switch.htm (http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/switch.htm) for a very clear description of switch types. ("(ON)-OFF ... push-to-make". That's the one you need.)
It took me about half an hour. I don't know how to insert images so here's the link to the Picasa Album.Looks like a really nice job - thanks for posting.
Have to find the board for scripts- the Motion Detection script keeps loading automatically so I had to delete it off the card...Sounds like you have enabled script activation at startup. That has nothing to do with the motion detection script itself - you need to disable that function in the scripting menu.
Hello again people. I've been away from CHDK for a while, but thought I would return because I enjoy controlling my electronics rather than letting them control me. (Same reason I rooted my Android phone)http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/USB_Remote_Cable (http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/USB_Remote_Cable)
I still have the working cable I built, but I forgot what has to be done on the camera to set up remote usage. I have an a470. If I remember (and it could have changed) I have to put remote.(something) on the card in a specific place and do something in the menu. Is that still right?
Now to search for how to make the thing boot into CHDK automatically.
Hope it helps.
Has anyone done any timing tests in order to determine what is the exact delay between the shoot/full-press signal and the image capture?
In some previous tests, philmoz measured the time from switch release to sensor data becoming available.
The results (in msec) were :-
G12 = 470
SX30 = 700
IXUS310 = 320 - 350
SX40 = 280 - 330
I do not think older cameras had delays that big.
Even though it probably does not bother you, have you been able to find very flexible USB leads ?
Hey guys, I was looking for a way to remotely trigger my SX10IS for some macro photography and came across this project. I successfully loaded CHDK on an SD card and activated the remote settings based on the wiki page (http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/USB_Remote_Cable). When I trigger my remote though, nothing is happening. I've verified then when I push the button I get ~4.8V (3 AAA batteries) on the V+ pin on the USB cable I'm using.Can you post a screenshot / picture of the Remote Parameters menu ? Or at least list how you set each value ?
Also, you cannot trigger the remote while in CHDK <ALT> mode - you need to be in normal shooting mode.I was still in <ALT> mode. Got it working now - thanks!
I was still in <ALT> mode. Got it working now - thanks!I've learned to always ask that question first - its a common problem.
What are the pins of the usb connector? Which pins are usb and which pins are A&V?link > Let me google that for you (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=canon+usb+av+connector+pinout)
I have a usb style connected from a non working av cable that I have been able to easily chop up to get the connector with the wires de-soldered. Ask if you would like photos of the connector.It would be simpler if you just told us which camera model you have.
What are the pins of the usb connector? Which pins are usb and which pins are A&V?link > Let me google that for you (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=canon+usb+av+connector+pinout)QuoteI have a usb style connected from a non working av cable that I have been able to easily chop up to get the connector with the wires de-soldered. Ask if you would like photos of the connector.It would be simpler if you just told us which camera model you have.
I did a lot of searching but didn't find any particularity useful results. This looks like the answer: https://secure.flickr.com/photos/dunehaven/4094250604/That would be the first search hit from the link I posted for you. :D
Any samples in building a USB-shutter-cable with buildin power suply via USB-wall-plug ?
I afterwards realized that my Powershot A495 can't be powered via the mini usb plud.I don't believe any P&S camera can be powered that way. The instantaneous current draw during shooting, lens movements and flash charging can require as much as 2A at time. Well above the power available on a USB port.
The reason is that what CHDK uses for remote triggering is the two pins that supply power to the USB port. It does not use the data pins. An Android device does give you the ability to send and receive data via USB, but it does not give you the ability to turn the USB power on or off.All true.
The reason is that what CHDK uses for remote triggering is the two pins that supply power to the USB port. It does not use the data pins. An Android device does give you the ability to send and receive data via USB, but it does not give you the ability to turn the USB power on or off.NO, you didn't pay attention to what I wrote:
some android homemade ROMs (AOSP I know for sure) let you to access USB-VBUS output (yes I'm not talking about the charging process, but the opposite)I was talking about V+ and V- USB pins and the possibility to control them exploiting the low level on/off voltage provided by the USB OTG (see here for OnTheGO (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go)) with a supported tablet/smartphone device.
I can confirm: using an USB OTG cable with a supported device (smartphone/tablet) it is possible to remotly trigger a Powershoot with CHDK simply attaching/detaching the cable.
It would be possible to use a switch between the OTG and mini-USB cable...That will be a pretty rough hardware exploited way.]
There are now 5V miniaturized battery packs widely available to charge smartphones. :D A few of them have on-off switches. Connect a USB A male plug to the output of this battery pack and the other end to a CHDK-camera programmed to take a shot when the remote is triggered. Powering the pack ON will cause the camera to take a photo, powering off will reset the system to take a 2nd photo. This is a very smooth exploitation of "hardware" that wasn't on the market just a few years ago. Only drawback is that the pack's power switch must be hit 2x for each shot.
I built my twin USB cable release using a big LEGO plate and a couple of inexpensive parts from McMaster-Carr: a cheap 9v battery holder and a nice 6mm panel cutout switch. I did a very small amount of very poor soldering, but mostly the wires are connected with pigtails that I've protected in heat-shrink tubes.Are you using 9v for the remote? That would be way outside the USB spec of 5v, definitely not recommended.