.... but I don't have an equatorial mount., and yours is way out of my price range.
http://www.astropix.com/BGDA/SAMPLE2/SAMPLE2.HTM
I sure wish there was a good way to send a signal FROM the camera, instead of just the camera sensing external usb power on and off.
I just did my first overnight run with my new C# capture app and you can see the video here
Wow, that's really impressive! Was this technique your idea, or has anyone done this before?I've played around a little with night time lapses with the G1X and SX50, but I don't have an equatorial mount., and yours is way out of my price range.One thing I've learned is that it's hard to see a meteor or other flash that appears in a single frame of a video at 30fps (or 25 fps, I assume). Sometimes you see it, and sometimes you don't. At 15 fps, you can reliably see it, but that slows down the video by half, and makes fast moving elements, like clouds choppy. My solution is to repeat the frame with the meteor in it a few times, or hold it for a second or two. I used the hold technique in this video:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ap38PBGcSX8#
QuoteI just did my first overnight run with my new C# capture app and you can see the video hereGood job!Did you tried to shoot a DSO through telescope on the heq5 with a810?
Quote from: waterwingz on 02 / October / 2013, 14:51:40http://www.astropix.com/BGDA/SAMPLE2/SAMPLE2.HTMThanks for the link. I've considering building a barn door contraption, but I'd like to have something motorized, and less work to build. I'm thinking of getting the Orion EQ1 setup, for about $150:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000XMX8Ohttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000XMWBWIt would take some serious hardware hacking to get it to work with an external controller.I sure wish there was a good way to send a signal FROM the camera, instead of just the camera sensing external usb power on and off. I wonder if it would be possible to turn the power off and on to the HDMI output connector somehow? Has that been looked at?
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