Using the meter in resistance mode (Ohms), measure the resistance of the two devices. We need to know the resistance in both directions so to speak.
Place the black lead probe on T1 at the end nearest the power connector, the red lead probe on the other end of T1 and measure the resistance. Now swap the probes round, red nearest the power connector, black furthest away. measure the resistance again.
No repeat the process for T2.
Give us those four values, and we will try to make an educated guess as to the function of the two Tn devices.
My money is on them both being similar, and having a very low resistance (of the order of 1 ohm or less) in both directions.
(I may of course be completely wrong

)
My reasoning is that the board is marked T1 and T2, so they are probably meant to be
ferrite beads to help keep the incoming power supply "clean", assisted by the two missing capacitors (or as I previously suggested some sort of over current device to protect against reverse polarity, but that makes less sense with hindsight as they both have a name prefix of "T", suggesting a transformer or wire wound component ).
In the cheap rip off version, the board has been cloned, and the filtering components either omitted in the case of C1 and C2, or in the case of T1 and T2 replaced with "Zero Ohm" resistors (wire links in effect), which are obviously much cheaper, but will fit the same board footprint.
In other words, the caps were omitted completely and the function of the ferrite beads was lost as they were replaced with wires.
This board will work perfectly well, and be perfectly safe, but will not be as good a solution as the original, in terms of protecting the camera from unwanted power supply unit (PSU) noise and transients caused by plugging and unplugging the power connector. As always you get what you pay for. In this case, I wouldn't loose any sleep over the cheaper solution.