I would like to point that when the camera is in the "scene intelligent auto", the CHDK elements blinks a lot on the screen, and is almost impossible to use. Is this happens to you too? Is there a way to avoid this?
but I don't know how to execute the script - so nothing is written to the card.
Does CHDK support firmware 120f - or only 1.0.0?
I made a sunset time-lapse test Video with Canon EOS M3. Unfortunately, the SD card was at the end so full that the sunset is not complete. Script works very well with M3. I set the ev_shift to -1/4. Lens was EFM 15-45mm. Next time I will run the script to high ISO values to see if the M3 has same problems as my other cams.
-- *****lapser sv test-- set_sv96(self.sv96) set_prop(props.DELTA_SV,self.sv96-get_prop(props.SV)+get_prop(props.DELTA_SV)) set_prop(props.SV,self.sv96)-- *****lapser sv test
WOW! That's incredibly beautiful.
What aperture did you use?
Did you use a filter?
I've attached a copy of rawopint.lua with set_sv96(sv) replaced (at line 1055) by the code I've been using for years without problems. Will you see if it fixes the ISO problem on the G1X if you have time? Run the script in continuous mode.Code: [Select]-- *****lapser sv test-- set_sv96(self.sv96) set_prop(props.DELTA_SV,self.sv96-get_prop(props.SV)+get_prop(props.DELTA_SV)) set_prop(props.SV,self.sv96)-- *****lapser sv test
I did my first time lapse with the EOSM. The script just holds the shutter down in continuous mode with 20 second exposures at night, but it works.
I'm working on other scripts too, using reyalp's fantastic hook code.
I always use the max aperture on the G1X for sunsets, because it gets dark at the end! I also find that when you reduce the G1X aperture, the sun shows radial diffraction spikes, and doesn't look round. Hopefully, that will be better with M3 lenses.
I adjust the exposure by this amount, and adjust the next shot to match the brightness before the filter switch.
I noticed those small oscillations in brightness and fixed them in the script. Basically, I don't adjust exposure until it's around 5 ev96 off. I gradually increase the amount of each adjustment from 0 to 3 ev96 until I'm 48 ev96 off, then adjust to 48 off after that. It's like driving a car. You turn the wheel more and more towards the center of the road as you near the edge. Then you turn the wheel as much as needed to keep from going off the road.
See you in another topic soon!
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DSLR Hack development
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