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Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations

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Offline udo

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #10 on: 21 / February / 2017, 10:44:33 »
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Quote from: c_joerg on 21 / February / 2017, 10:25:38
Quote from: udo on 21 / February / 2017, 10:02:04
Our AC-adapter PS700 has an output of 7.4V (2.0A)
So we could get way with the MT3608 module as it could deliver 2A's for us at that voltage. (I did see some videos of smoking MT3608 modules, though)

If you want to have 7,4V / 2.0 A you need at 5V more than 3A….
Hmm.
So if we go from 3.7 to 7.4 we need 4A?
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Offline c_joerg

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #11 on: 21 / February / 2017, 11:33:23 »
Quote from: udo on 21 / February / 2017, 10:44:33
Hmm.
So if we go from 3.7 to 7.4 we need 4A?
Yes… plus about 10% for transferring… but this would be not a problem for the batterie.
And I would think, the 2A would be only a peak, not just all the time…
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Offline udo

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #12 on: 21 / February / 2017, 11:36:10 »
Quote from: c_joerg on 21 / February / 2017, 11:33:23
Quote from: udo on 21 / February / 2017, 10:44:33
Hmm.
So if we go from 3.7 to 7.4 we need 4A?
Yes… plus about 10% for transferring… but this would be not a problem for the batterie.
And I would think, the 2A would be only a peak, not just all the time…
But the MT3608 has an internal limit of 4A.
(plus we might run in some heatsinking needs)
So would the MT3608 (barely) work?
If not: what fatter boost converter would work OK? (higher switching frequency, higher internal limit, etc)
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Offline c_joerg

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #13 on: 22 / February / 2017, 05:39:58 »
Quote from: udo on 21 / February / 2017, 11:36:10
But the MT3608 has an internal limit of 4A.
(plus we might run in some heatsinking needs)
So would the MT3608 (barely) work?
If not: what fatter boost converter would work OK? (higher switching frequency, higher internal limit, etc)

I would buy with first a fake battery with power supply. Then I would cut the cable and measure the current. Only then I would make the decision which DC / DC converter I would take.

My G1x needs about 0.4A with (display brightness 2/5) and 0.2A without display in operation at 7.4V. Only when you turn on the lens does it need significantly more. This does not happen with the M3 or M10. My expectations are that the M3 in the middle also does not need more than 0.5A.

The Power supply for G1x also delivers 2A

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Offline waterwingz

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #14 on: 22 / February / 2017, 07:42:51 »
Quote from: c_joerg on 22 / February / 2017, 05:39:58
I would buy with first a fake battery with power supply. Then I would cut the cable and measure the current.
How would you measure current? Average current, as measured with a DVM or other ampmeter, will only tell you part of the story.  It's the peak currents, that may only occur for a few milliseconds, that determine the power supply needed. 
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Offline c_joerg

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #15 on: 22 / February / 2017, 08:14:51 »
Quote from: waterwingz on 22 / February / 2017, 07:42:51
How would you measure current? Average current, as measured with a DVM or other ampmeter, will only tell you part of the story.  It's the peak currents, that may only occur for a few milliseconds, that determine the power supply needed.

Normally if use my DVM and I have parallel my analog oscilloscope.

The average current tells you if you need a heatsinking or not and how long the cam can work with the battery (approximately).

The oscilloscope shows me the peak. I never see really peaks in a few milliseconds, but I could miss them on the analog oscilloscope. Peaks can possibly avoid with capacitor.
On my G1x I played a little bit with big capacitor but the time where the lens goes out is really long.

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Offline waterwingz

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #16 on: 22 / February / 2017, 08:27:36 »
Quote from: c_joerg on 22 / February / 2017, 08:14:51
Normally if use my DVM and I have parallel my analog oscilloscope.  The average current tells you if you need a heatsinking or not and how long the cam can work with the battery (approximately).  The oscilloscope shows me the peak. I never see really peaks in a few milliseconds, but I could miss them on the analog oscilloscope. Peaks can possibly avoid with capacitor.
On my G1x I played a little bit with big capacitor but the time where the lens goes out is really long.
Perfect.
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Offline udo

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #17 on: 27 / February / 2017, 09:11:53 »
Them chinese retailers sell kits consisting of the fake battery (also for M3/M10), some boxed electronics and it all ends in a USB cable to connect to a 5V/2A powerbank.
This means that at 7.4 volts the power will only be 1.4 Amps or so.
So we should avoid this option?

Another option would be to use separate Li-Ion cells (generic flat ones or 16850's @3500 mAH) to get to 7.x volts (2S) without electronics.
In case of multiple 18650's (4 or 6 to get closer to the 10AH of the mi.com powerbank)  I must then look into options of charging these simultaneously.
E.g. this one: https://www.123accu.nl/Nitecore-Intellicharger-i4-oplader-i31489.html
See this http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/650000-674999/651339-da-01-en-BATTERIEHALTER_PIN_F__4_ZELLEN_18650_THT.pdf to see a way to connect these batteries together.
Fake battery and cable: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DR-E12-LP-E12-Fake-Battery-DRE12-DR-E12-DC-Coupler-PS700-DC-Cable-For-Canon/1000002002464.html for connecting camera to batteries.
Real batteries, a sub-selection: which ones should I consider and which ones should I avoid? See
https://www.conrad.nl/nl/Search.html?searchType=REGULAR&search=18650&tfo_ATT_CAPACITY=3400%20mAh~~~3450%20mAh&tfo_ATT_VOLTAGE_NUM=3.7%20V
PS: 5000 mAH?!?!  :blink: http://www.lightinthebox.com/nl/5000mah-18650-batterij-4-stuks_p1490235.html?currency=EUR
« Last Edit: 01 / March / 2017, 08:55:36 by udo »
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Offline c_joerg

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #18 on: 27 / February / 2017, 10:09:51 »
Quote from: udo on 27 / February / 2017, 09:11:53
Them chinese retailers sell kits consisting of the fake battery (also for M3/M10), some boxed electronics and it all ends in a USB cable to connect to a 5V/2A powerbank.
This means that at 7.4 volts the power will only be 1.4 Amps or so.
So we should avoid this option?

Do you have a link of this option?
If he sold it, then I would expect it to work. I would dare to try.

For my G1x, I have a holder for 6 * AA 1,2V Nimh Cells. This works very well.

Powerbanks typical include 16850 cells. My idea was, I open two Powerbanks and put the cell of 2 Powerbanks in series (2 *3,7V) for running the cam. For Charging I would separate them to charge with 5V.


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Offline udo

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #19 on: 27 / February / 2017, 10:18:23 »
Quote from: c_joerg on 27 / February / 2017, 10:09:51
Quote from: udo on 27 / February / 2017, 09:11:53
Them chinese retailers sell kits consisting of the fake battery (also for M3/M10), some boxed electronics and it all ends in a USB cable to connect to a 5V/2A powerbank.
This means that at 7.4 volts the power will only be 1.4 Amps or so.
So we should avoid this option?

Do you have a link of this option?
See http://www.studiolighting.net/items/5v-Usb-Drive-Cable-Ack-e15-Dr-e15-lc-e15e-Lp-e15-Dc-Battery-For-Canon-100d_301984952177.html for something similar.

Quote
If he sold it, then I would expect it to work. I would dare to try.
Please report back!
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