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Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations

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Offline udo

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #20 on: 11 / March / 2017, 05:47:49 »
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I Acquired a carrying case for the M3/M10 and the fake battery plus cable for the M3/M10.
Next I will get the batteries, case and charger for the 18650's.

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Offline axman

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #21 on: 20 / June / 2017, 14:49:00 »
Hey guys, interesting topic, I also have the external power questions for my SX530HS and M10.  Having enough Amps is key, as many people have said.

Some sources for various Vregs below.  Hopefully the info is useful to your experiments.

For my ixus160 rig, I use this buck V reg:
https://www.dpcav.com/xcart/Adjustable-Voltage-Regulator-1-35V-SEPIC-Type.html
It is   3 - 35V input, adjustable output, 2A continuous
I give it input of 19V, and step down to 4.1V at fake battery.  Best camera results and reliability.

This buck Vreg seems to fit your requirements of 7.4V @ 4A as long as your battery pack is enough volts more than 7.4
https://www.pololu.com/product/2883
It is ?(9) ~ 40V input, 7.5V output, 15A
I have not used this one yet, but might be promising for M10.

If high amps AND different input/output voltages are required, as if many cams sharing a common power supply, you may be interested in this buck boost Vreg. 
http://www.mini-box.com/DCDC-USB-200
It is     6-34V input, 5-24V output, 15A continuous
In my rig, I give it input from 12V batteries and make 19V output. 

And this device is not a Vreg, but is useful in external battery configurations.  It switches between the highest of 2 input voltage sources to a common output.
http://www.mini-box.com/Y-PWR-Hot-Swap-Load-Sharing-Controller
With this, I can disconnect half of my batteries and rig continues to run.  The Intel NUC at receiving end does not notice the switch..

Anyway, hope the info is useful.  Looking forward to hearing more about your experiments!

Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #22 on: 21 / June / 2017, 02:08:08 »
Interesting.
I still favor a solution with a power bank for all my cameras.
The operation of my S110 and SX50 is thus no problem, since they need 3.7V.

However, I did not have time to worry about it.
This is a transitional solution:
https://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php?topic=13164.0
EOS M3 101a, 2*G1x (101a,100e), S110 (103a), SX50 (100c), SX230 (101a), IXUS30 (100k), 2*S45,
Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums
YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrTH0tHy9OYTVDzWIvXEMlw/videos?shelf_id=0&view=0&sort=dd

Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #23 on: 21 / December / 2017, 04:20:28 »
I have now bought this adapter for my EOS M3
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B074CCFFCT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It looks similar to this one in that post:
https://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php?topic=13056.msg131628#msg131628

I'm really positively surprised (even the size of the DC / DC). With the included USB power adapter (5V / 3A) everything works without problems. Also a time lapse test with 30 shots (interval 2s / RAW + JPG) went without problems. The voltage curve (measured in the camera about 8.3V) also showed no abnormalities.

Even with my first power bank with a 2.4A output went smoothly.

With a second power bank with 2.1A output, the camera could not be turned on via the main switch.
Interestingly, the power bank stayed on and did not switch off! If you would just hang a powerful DC / DC to the power bank, then the power bank would turn off at greater> 2.1A immediately. That was not the case here.
This DC / DC converter seems to recognize what he can expect from the power bank.

But what work for this power bank: Turn on in the playback mode and then switch to recording. Again, no abnormalities were seen during the time-lapse recordings.

I will now make a connection for my Canon G1x. The crucial question will be whether I can extend it then the lens.

@Ant
If I turn on the camera, then I do not need to confirm the external power supply. I've heard of other adapters that need do this.
I still do not understand why always have to confirm the replacement batteries. The replacement battery could behave as the DC-coupler.



« Last Edit: 21 / December / 2017, 04:22:15 by c_joerg »
EOS M3 101a, 2*G1x (101a,100e), S110 (103a), SX50 (100c), SX230 (101a), IXUS30 (100k), 2*S45,
Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums
YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrTH0tHy9OYTVDzWIvXEMlw/videos?shelf_id=0&view=0&sort=dd


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Offline udo

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #24 on: 21 / December / 2017, 09:06:11 »
I have now bought this adapter for my EOS M3
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B074CCFFCT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Interesting option!
But: 2.4A powerbank? Is this a common standard?
Is the DC/DC converter efficient? (warm?)

Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #25 on: 21 / December / 2017, 09:36:07 »
But: 2.4A powerbank? Is this a common standard?
 

I have only 1 of 4 powerbanks which delivers 2.4A. All others have 2.1A

Is the DC/DC converter efficient? (warm?)

It gets only a little bit warm.
I haven’t measured the current from M3 until now but I wouldn’t expect more than 0.4A in mean. The peaks are only short. So I think it’s not critical.

EOS M3 101a, 2*G1x (101a,100e), S110 (103a), SX50 (100c), SX230 (101a), IXUS30 (100k), 2*S45,
Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums
YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrTH0tHy9OYTVDzWIvXEMlw/videos?shelf_id=0&view=0&sort=dd

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Offline udo

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #26 on: 21 / December / 2017, 10:27:37 »
But: 2.4A powerbank? Is this a common standard?
 

I have only 1 of 4 powerbanks which delivers 2.4A. All others have 2.1A
A quick query on ebay.de with `2.4a powerbank` yields a few results...
Quote
Is the DC/DC converter efficient? (warm?)

It gets only a little bit warm.
I haven’t measured the current from M3 until now but I wouldn’t expect more than 0.4A in mean. The peaks are only short. So I think it’s not critical.
Sounds interesting: less `non-standard` parts and more ease of (multi) use....
Thanks for posting this find!

 

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