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Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations

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Offline c_joerg

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #30 on: 28 / January / 2020, 13:51:29 »
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My currently preferred solution for powering my camera is a power bank with quick charge and a quick charge USB tester. This tester then simulates a quick charge device.

I then operate the camera directly with the 9V and have an output power of 18W (9V / 2A). Alternatively, I could also operate a slider with 12V and a maximum of 1.5A.



Since there is only one DC / DC converter in this chain, the total power loss is about 15% lower. There is also no influence on two DC / DC converters.



Powerbanks with QC are available from € 10, which is significantly cheaper than powerbanks with 9V or 12V output.

Similar testers are also available for PD (Power Delivery). With the testers you should make sure that there is a slide switch and no buttons. Those with the buttons must be reprogrammed after each switch on.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/QC3-0-QC2-0-USB-Trigger-Tester-Induction-Quick-Charge-Voltage-Detector-5V-9V-12V/264365621372?hash=item3d8d6b407c:g:X8wAAOSwT8ZdB0cj
 

 
 
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M100 100a, M3 101a, G9x II (1.00c), 2*G1x (101a,100e), S110 (103a), SX50 (100c), SX230 (101a), S45,
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Offline c_joerg

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #31 on: 28 / May / 2020, 14:38:52 »

I have now bought a trigger for Quick Charge 3.
https://lygte-info.dk/review/USBmeter%20QC2-QC3%20trigger%20UK.html

Work really well. They remember the last setting and you can use Quick Charge 3 to set the voltage in 0.2V steps.
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M100 100a, M3 101a, G9x II (1.00c), 2*G1x (101a,100e), S110 (103a), SX50 (100c), SX230 (101a), S45,
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Offline c_joerg

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #32 on: 19 / October / 2020, 08:44:12 »
Apparently, my Metz CT45 Flash can also be operated quite well with a Quick Charge Powerbank and the Quick Charge USB Tester.

Quick Charge delivers an output current of 2A at 9V.
I would now have expected that the power bank would switch off when the flash was switched on (due to the high inrush current). But that doesn't happen. Quick Charge seems to regulate the output voltage in this case.
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M100 100a, M3 101a, G9x II (1.00c), 2*G1x (101a,100e), S110 (103a), SX50 (100c), SX230 (101a), S45,
Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/136329431@N06/albums
YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrTH0tHy9OYTVDzWIvXEMlw/videos?shelf_id=0&view=0&sort=dd
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Offline toinech

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #33 on: 23 / April / 2021, 15:47:42 »
Quote from: udo on 19 / February / 2017, 02:50:42
Like I did for the SX260 https://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php?topic=12485.0 I'd like to power the EOS M3 or M10 throughout the night when I get one.
I read about 7.2V batteries, thus being different from S110/SX260.

Questions:
Can I use the 'fake battery' method? Yes ACK-E17 looks very similar.
So what would be the most practical and safe 7.2V source? USB powerbanks only do 5V & 3.7V...
Could I use the powerbank USB output 5V via DCDC step-up converter to 7.2V? E.g. this one? https://benselectronics.nl/lm2577-step-up-boost-/ or perhaps better https://benselectronics.nl/mt3608-step-up-boost-2a-/ ?
What about AC noise (ripple) of the DC converter? See this for inspiration. Can some filtering with a simple lowpass filter at e.g. 4 Khz fix this? (0,4 uF and 10 ohms)
Or should we consider alternatives?


It looks like the original battery pack is a 3.6V rechargeable li or lipo in serial => 2x3.6v => 7.2V
The voltage of the original will vary between 3.2v and 4.2v for each battery ; i.e. 6.4v (depleatted) and 8.4v (charged) for the pack.
You may want to use a 7.2V RC/drone battery pack if you can find one instead of using power bank which would use the 3.6V pack internally anyway. A 2S2P or better 2S3P RC/drone battery pack will do the job with the best efficiency.
No need to do converted and filter.
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Offline c_joerg

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Re: Powering EOS M3/M10 throught night time timelapse situations
« Reply #34 on: 24 / April / 2021, 06:38:26 »
Quote from: toinech on 23 / April / 2021, 15:47:42
You may want to use a 7.2V RC/drone battery pack if you can find one instead of using power bank which would use the 3.6V pack internally anyway. A 2S2P or better 2S3P RC/drone battery pack will do the job with the best efficiency.


For me, these special solutions are not worthwhile. I only need such power supplies two or three times a year. You also need a special charger. I always have a power bank with me anyway.
RC Batteries have also been removed from me several times at the airport. This has never happened to me with a power bank.

Quote from: toinech on 23 / April / 2021, 15:47:42
No need to do converted and filter.

With power banks with QC you don't need a DC / DC converter, just a trigger.
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M100 100a, M3 101a, G9x II (1.00c), 2*G1x (101a,100e), S110 (103a), SX50 (100c), SX230 (101a), S45,
Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/136329431@N06/albums
YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrTH0tHy9OYTVDzWIvXEMlw/videos?shelf_id=0&view=0&sort=dd
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