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Maximum operating voltage of the G1x / M3 / M10

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Offline reyalp

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Re: Maximum operating voltage of the G1x / M3 / M10
« Reply #20 on: 02 / July / 2017, 15:56:36 »
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I can run rawopint now with 1100ms intervals without error (40 shoots).  :)  :)  :)
Is this build really faster or is just calculation of sleep now correct?
I expect it's actually faster. The sleep calculation is just a difference between clock values, so there's very little chance it was wrong.

That doesn't mean the camera is actually running faster, it just means that the way it was before ended up wasting time somewhere.

To maintain a set interval in continuous mode, rawopint needs to stop the shooting process until it's time to take the next shot. This is done using the remote hook, which normally is very close to where the shot actually starts. In the original g1x port, this was in a different place, quite far from where the shot starts, which appears to have had some side effects. The Canon firmware doesn't expect to be stopped at any of these points, so side effects aren't surprising.
Don't forget what the H stands for.

Re: Maximum operating voltage of the G1x / M3 / M10
« Reply #21 on: 05 / July / 2017, 03:00:59 »
The part I find quite interesting.
You can even change the powerbanks during operation. The price frightens me. The part without buffer battery would be enough for me.
https://www.tethertools.com/case-relay-camera-power-system/
EOS M3 101a, 2*G1x (101a,100e), S110 (103a), SX50 (100c), SX230 (101a), IXUS160 (100a), IXUS30 (100k), 2*S45,
Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums
YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrTH0tHy9OYTVDzWIvXEMlw/videos?shelf_id=0&view=0&sort=dd

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Offline lapser

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Re: Maximum operating voltage of the G1x / M3 / M10
« Reply #22 on: 05 / July / 2017, 13:33:36 »
I don't think the USB battery would be satisfactory. It's really just a DC to DC voltage converter.

The problem with 5V USB voltage sources is that they hold their voltage until they suddenly cut off. The script can't end normally by monitoring for low voltage. In continuous mode, you'll lose up to 2000 pictures when your battery runs down.

A better solution is the 8.4V bicycle battery that I mentioned. I've used it for hundreds of time lapses, and it's never let me down. For an overnight, I sometimes put 2 batteries in parallel. You can also "hot swap" a second battery with a simple Y cord.

As a bonus, it has straps for attaching it to handlebars, or tripod legs. And it's only $35:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PE6TVCI/
EOS-M3_120f / SX50_100b / SX260_101a / G1X_100g / D20_100b
https://www.youtube.com/user/DrLapser/videos

Re: Maximum operating voltage of the G1x / M3 / M10
« Reply #23 on: 06 / July / 2017, 02:36:31 »
I don't think the USB battery would be satisfactory. It's really just a DC to DC voltage converter.

It’s a DC/ DC Converter plus battery. You can even change the powerbanks during operation!

Code: [Select]
Technical details
Output voltage: 7-9 Volt DC max. 2 amp
Input voltage: 5 VDC (DC), 2 Amps
Battery type: Lithium-ion battery
Battery Capacity: 1200 mAh 7.4 Volts
The problem with 5V USB voltage sources is that they hold their voltage until they suddenly cut off.

My understanding was not with this Case Relay.
For me it looks like, the DC/DC converter charges internal 7.4V Battery.
If the powerbanks goes suddenly cut off, then the internal 7.4V Battery gets discharged.
So I think, the power goes slowly down and the camera can make a save shut down.

A better solution is the 8.4V bicycle battery that I mentioned.
Yes I know all this advantage and I have something similar for 3.7V
https://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php?topic=13164.msg133648#msg133648
EOS M3 101a, 2*G1x (101a,100e), S110 (103a), SX50 (100c), SX230 (101a), IXUS160 (100a), IXUS30 (100k), 2*S45,
Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums
YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrTH0tHy9OYTVDzWIvXEMlw/videos?shelf_id=0&view=0&sort=dd


 

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