My most preferred interval for images is 60 seconds, so my cameras and Raspberry Pi controlled, Internet connected (wifi or more recently 3/4G mobile data) rigs run constantly during the day with an average power draw of 8W (measured with a cheap, consumer AC Watt meter).I use weatherproof outdoor enclosures, with sun shields but when they're in the full Sun, I've been encountering camera shutdowns, with logs showing a sensor temperature of 80 degrees C. It seems the camera sensor (not the LCD display, the actual picture sensor) remains on the entire time the camera is powered and the heat just builds up.
function camera_init() print('Unpressing power button') cli_cmd('=post_levent_to_ui"UnpressPowerButton"')
I followed your instructions, which you have actually offered in the past and it seems you are correct or at least the LCD goes black.
Thanks for your informative reply and for not taking offence at my doubts at CHDK's robustness.
I write in the hope that someone could either suggest a way to shut off the IXUS160 sensor, inbetween shots,
or perhaps an alternative, microprocessor-based variant of CHDK that I can use.
I'm not sure what you mean by this. CHDK only runs on canon cameras. If you mean using a microcontroller to do what you are doing with chdkptp now, that would most likely require a lot of work.
I think if I were doing this, I think I would focus would be on getting the heat out of the enclosure more efficiently (after verifying that the sensor off after 10s was actually working). But again, you should do whatever best matches your personal preference and resources.
I'm thinking that an ultra low power, low heat producing, real-time clock based Arduino intervalometer could handle the CHDKPTP time-lapse image taking, then on a separate schedule, the Arduiono could power up the Raspberry Pi which would extract the images from the camera (oops.. two devices trying to connect to the same USB port (but not at the same time at least - perhaps using a split USB cable?)
Here in Australia the ambient temperature can exceed 45 degrees Centigrade, so my goal is more about preventing extra heat than it is about getting cool air into the case from outside, because there sometimes isn't any - cool air.
If you just want an intervalometer, use a CHDK script. Or if you insist on using an Arduino, control the camera via CHDK's USB Remote functionality. That leaves the actual USB data connection for the requested download to the Raspberry Pi. The code for the Ultimate Intervalometer show how to mix USB remote functionality and CHDKPTP on the same USB port.
After a short period of time, the temperature inside any sealed container will rise to the outside ambient temperature plus the heat gain from the components inside. Insulation only slows the rate of rise. The point of ventilation is to let as much of the heat generate inside as possible escape - minimizing the rise above ambient.
QuoteTo which end I've ordered this cheap and cheerful test kit Peltier effect cells are fun to play with. But getting any significant amount of cooling takes a big set of cells with heat sinks and quite a bit of electrical power. Which kind of flys in the face of your original low power requirement.
To which end I've ordered this cheap and cheerful test kit
Enabling USB Remote operationTo enable USB remote operation, go to the CHDK Remote parameters menu and select Enable Remote.Note : When this option is selected, the USB port on the camera will no longer be available for uploading picture files or PTP operations.
Moisture and condensation are also potential problems in my sub-tropical environment, so I'm leaning towards a sealed enclosure with a gel absorbtion pack rather than ventilation. To which end I've ordered this cheap and cheerful test kit https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pc-Thermoelectric-Peltier-Refrigeration-Cooler-DC-12V-Semiconductor-Air-Conditioner-Cooling-System-DIY-Kit/32814753813.html?spm=a2g0s.9042322.214.171.124bf44c4dFJupPF
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