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CHDK for longtime timelapse

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Offline reyalp

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Re: CHDK for longtime timelapse
« Reply #30 on: 11 / July / 2021, 14:01:09 »
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Yes I also noticed the slight distortion(?) with the ND filter kicked in. I can't say for sure now, but it seems that the changes in the shadows and and movement of the trees seems more dominant. Obviously the mountains should stay the same as they don't moves as fast... :D
Yes, the ND filters have some small optical effects beyond just reducing the amount of light. See https://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php?topic=13228.msg134675#msg134675 for some previous discussion

You could probably reduce it a lot in processing by using different lens correction for ND in and out.
Don't forget what the H stands for.

Re: CHDK for longtime timelapse
« Reply #31 on: 11 / July / 2021, 19:12:50 »
Actually in the sunset of today it is not possible to spot the moment when the ND filter was removed. Not even in the full resolution video.

I think this is not an issue.

I uploaded the sunset of today to google drive if anyone of you are interested...
Attached is the log file.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Bu9fsw_QQ4g7yt2doCLDOg98LdOtcM3Z/view?usp=drivesdk
If you want to see a sunset or sunrise of Dolomiti Val Gardena shot with CHDK visit
Telegram: t.me/DolomitiTimelapse
Instagram: dolomiti_timelapse

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Offline reyalp

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Re: CHDK for longtime timelapse
« Reply #32 on: 11 / July / 2021, 19:53:19 »
Actually in the sunset of today it is not possible to spot the moment when the ND filter was removed. Not even in the full resolution video.
Watching the small peak on the right, I think it's between 14 and 15 seconds, but unlikely anyone not specifically looking will notice. Certainly not a problem for a bot posting to IG.
Don't forget what the H stands for.

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Offline Caefix

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Re: CHDK for longtime timelapse
« Reply #33 on: 12 / July / 2021, 14:21:06 »
Obviously the mountains should stay the same as they don't moves as fast... :D
... Depends on set_zoom() dynamics ...  :lol
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Offline c_joerg

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An other topic was the under_expo_weight, over_exp_weight. As far as I understand for my type of sunset it is best to switch this two parameters off and only relay on the meter exposure, because I think that if a bright cloud comes into the frame the hole frame should not darken.

When taking pictures in the sun, I always concentrate purely on overexposure. Overexposure maximum 1%, underexposure is switched off. I then pull up the darks in the RAW converter. A workflow with RAW is important here.


I found this line in the rawpint code:
Code: [Select]
1148 -- smooth out rapid changes
1149 -- TODO smoothed fraction should be configurable

What I did was to implement a simple exponential moving average.
 

I did something similar here
https://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php?topic=11081.msg124334#msg124334
M100 100a, M3 101a, G9x II (1.00c), 2*G1x (101a,100e), S110 (103a), SX50 (100c), SX230 (101a), S45,
Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/136329431@N06/albums
YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrTH0tHy9OYTVDzWIvXEMlw/videos?shelf_id=0&view=0&sort=dd


When taking pictures in the sun, I always concentrate purely on overexposure. Overexposure maximum 1%, underexposure is switched off. I then pull up the darks in the RAW converter. A workflow with RAW is important here.

I have no experience taking pictures in to the sun... I will see..
Actually really want to avoid the a RAW conversion workflow. It consumes too much resources, which I don't have and I have to build a converter that works well for EVERY situation, since the I won't change the setting. This means it has to work for a summer sunny day, summer sunrise, sunset, cloudy day, summer night, winter sunny day, winter sunrise, winter sunset, winter cloudy day, winter night, etc. I think that is impossible/it would take me years.


Quote
I did something similar here
https://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php?topic=11081.msg124334#msg124334

I think the code in your post does a different thing. I implemented an moving average  ;)

Here is an explanation what I did: yea it's investopedia, but it is basically a signal low pass filter.  :P
https://www.investopedia.com/terms/e/ema.asp#:~:text=An%20exponential%20moving%20average%20%28EMA%29%20is%20a%20type,referred%20to%20as%20the%20exponentially%20weighted%20moving%20average.
« Last Edit: 13 / July / 2021, 04:21:21 by dolomiti_timelapse »
If you want to see a sunset or sunrise of Dolomiti Val Gardena shot with CHDK visit
Telegram: t.me/DolomitiTimelapse
Instagram: dolomiti_timelapse

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Offline c_joerg

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Actually really want to avoid the a RAW conversion workflow. It consumes too much resources, which I don't have and I have to build a converter that works well for EVERY situation, since the I won't change the setting.


But with that you lose a lot of dynamik. You put a lot of effort into the recordings and then lose a lot. It's like driving a racing car with the handbrake on.
M100 100a, M3 101a, G9x II (1.00c), 2*G1x (101a,100e), S110 (103a), SX50 (100c), SX230 (101a), S45,
Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/136329431@N06/albums
YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrTH0tHy9OYTVDzWIvXEMlw/videos?shelf_id=0&view=0&sort=dd

But with that you lose a lot of dynamik. You put a lot of effort into the recordings and then lose a lot. It's like driving a racing car with the handbrake on.

If I may ask, what would be your approach?
Do you have a raw converter config file for rawtherapee to try out?
If you want to see a sunset or sunrise of Dolomiti Val Gardena shot with CHDK visit
Telegram: t.me/DolomitiTimelapse
Instagram: dolomiti_timelapse


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Offline c_joerg

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Do you have a raw converter config file for rawtherapee to try out?

I haven’t used rawtherapee until no.

If I may ask, what would be your approach?

When it comes to native RAW (like the G1x), I still think Canon Digital Photo Professional is a very good RAW converter. If I were you, I would take it.


I still use Lightroom 6, which I adapted my workflow to. All of my cameras including the M100 are supported. The advantage for me are XMP meta data files, which can be easily modified as described here:
https://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php?topic=12790.0
I also sometimes use Lrtimelapse. That also requires Lightroom.
https://lrtimelapse.com/




M100 100a, M3 101a, G9x II (1.00c), 2*G1x (101a,100e), S110 (103a), SX50 (100c), SX230 (101a), S45,
Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/136329431@N06/albums
YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrTH0tHy9OYTVDzWIvXEMlw/videos?shelf_id=0&view=0&sort=dd

Re: CHDK for longtime timelapse
« Reply #39 on: 14 / July / 2021, 05:29:52 »
I moved the discussion here, as the topic is not related to rawopint anymore:

When it comes to native RAW (like the G1x), I still think Canon Digital Photo Professional is a very good RAW converter. If I were you, I would take it.


I still use Lightroom 6, which I adapted my workflow to. All of my cameras including the M100 are supported. The advantage for me are XMP meta data files, which can be easily modified as described here:
https://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php?topic=12790.0
I also sometimes use Lrtimelapse. That also requires Lightroom.
https://lrtimelapse.com/

You have to keep in mind that the dolomiti timelapse bot works completely autonomously. I did a quick search, but Canon Digital Photo Professional does not provide any commands for an automated workflow(?) (why would they?).

Unfortunately, I will not be purchasing a Lightroom 6 license for this project. I turned my back on Adobe years ago. There are other and in my opinion better solutions for me as a hobbyist photographer...

Your link refers mainly to the discussion to remove flickering, not to develop raw files in an automated way.
I don't understand the flicker problem. Is this an older problem that no longer occurs with the newer CHDK firmware? I never had flicker problems before, but I also take measures against flicker like minimal ev_change changes and filtering of ev_change. I'm not interested in removing flicker after the photos are taken. Also, I don't think this will work in a thunderstorm situation since the "filcker" of lightning is a natural phenomenon and should not be removed.

However, my question is more like what can be gained from an automated raw workflow. I think to improve the quality I need to solve mainly the reflection in the windows and then I think only a full frame camera will improve the quality further, but I don't think I need that.
I also think it is difficult to achieve even jpg quality with an automated raw conversion workflow in all situations. I want to avoid unrealistic edited photos in any case.
I did some testing and the result was disillusioning, as the converted raw photos were an aggravated version of the jpgs, as the conversion tool was too tailored for a specific situation.
If you want to see a sunset or sunrise of Dolomiti Val Gardena shot with CHDK visit
Telegram: t.me/DolomitiTimelapse
Instagram: dolomiti_timelapse

 

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