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building usb-remote-cable

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Offline photoscott

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #70 on: 04 / April / 2008, 18:52:23 »
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I am doing something similar to Coutts design. I bought the Canon RS60 remote shutter button for $20 online. It has the 3.5mm tip on it. I am going to try this in the 3.5mm jack first to see what it does. I plugged in the 3.5mm jack from my VoIP headphones into my A570 IS. No button to push, just a mute switch. I am assuming because the 3.5mm tip wasn't attached to a momentary switch it didn't do anything except black the screen out. I know that Canon's DiGiC II design let's you do a remote capture through it's 3.5mm jack. I saw a design that was made from a cell phone hands free ear bud piece.    Remote shutter trigger for Digital Cameras - Instructables - DIY, How To, photography, tech    The main component was the momentary switch in the mic area. So I will be trying the 3.5mm jack first to see what that does. If no success, I will buy a 3AAA battery holder from Radio Shack and wire to and on the RS60. From what I understand, a AAA battery is 1.5v.  If you do three(and the math) that is 4.5v. That seems to be enough according to all the people out there doing similar things.
I like the wireless garage remote one too! Though I already ordered the RS60 online. Same cost as the wireless design except the RS60 allows you to lock the button "on" for long exposure shots.
Thanks for this forum and to all who have contributed to it.  8)
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Offline Barney Fife

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #71 on: 05 / April / 2008, 05:42:05 »
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« Last Edit: 22 / April / 2008, 16:05:52 by Barney Fife »
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databoy

Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #72 on: 05 / April / 2008, 06:05:55 »
Quite honestly people have purchased an expensive camera then try build a USB interface on the cheap.

I will add another word of caution. I would not trust the electronics guides on a large number of sites on the net. Most of the posters have very little electronics experience.

If you want a good starting point ePanorama.net
Be prepared to do a lot of reading and bread boarding.

A number of posts advocate using a 5 volt regulator. That approach will not work on the USB cable. You need a maximum voltage of a 4.7 zener diode across the + and - lines with a series resistor from the +ve feed. Your power supply will need to be regulated if it is above 5 volts. Voltage regulators need a minimum of 2 volts above the regulator output otherwise they will not regulate.

The simplest and cheapest approach is to buy a remote doorbell which operates on 3 volts.
   
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Offline photoscott

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #73 on: 09 / April / 2008, 18:37:51 »
Quote from: Barney Fife on 13 / February / 2008, 15:44:57

It's not too far-fetched that someone, someday, will find a way to tap into the microphone side of these cameras, and include things like a recording-volume meter, or ... more importantly, sound-triggered shutter capabilities.


Yeah like adding a condensed version of ProTools for portable, recordable media!
« Last Edit: 13 / April / 2008, 02:20:43 by photoscott »
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Offline photoscott

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #74 on: 09 / April / 2008, 18:41:00 »

Quote from: Barney Fife on 13 / February / 2008, 15:44:57

It's not too far-fetched that someone, someday, will find a way to tap into the microphone side of these cameras, and include things like a recording-volume meter, or ... more importantly, sound-triggered shutter capabilities.

Yes, like how about adding a script that would enable recording with an external mic to get rid of all the noise generated from handling the camera or even to be able to record in stereo, not to mention mic placement which is key to a good audio recording.

Scott
« Last Edit: 11 / April / 2008, 16:10:58 by photoscott »
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Offline stevodude

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #75 on: 11 / April / 2008, 00:53:54 »
well I worked out the s5is doesn't  work with less than 3.3v, as I tried a usb cable with a button lithium with 3.3v no load, and wouldn't detect with the script running.
Chassed around the deep dungeon of my desk and found an old pc front case reset switch/led, 3 1.5v AA batteries, and an old clear plastic case, and hacked off the end of a usb-usb extension lead.

hahaha, skip that, found this: CameraFeatures - CHDK Wiki

and stated 3.7v needed, so wacked 3x1.5v together and baboomba, works a tread... AWSOME?!!!!!!!.....

mkII remote usb RTA with bits found in my workshop. (PCD is an old front panel from a computer case, with led and micro switch all ready cabled up :-)


Assembled ready to go.


Button press makes led light up :-) mmmmmm  led's....


and it works. but the script seems to do something first, like focus etc then takes a shot, ie about 1.5seconds...
Wonder if there is a way to capture instantly, is pre focus, zoom, set settings, run remote script and then snap.? maybe questions for another thread, but I can't create threads atm...
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Offline Barney Fife

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #76 on: 11 / April / 2008, 05:34:03 »
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« Last Edit: 22 / April / 2008, 17:16:41 by Barney Fife »
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Offline photoscott

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #77 on: 11 / April / 2008, 15:56:56 »
Quote from: rocstar on 03 / March / 2008, 00:36:30
Here is another idea for a wired and wireless remote in one.  I purchased a Skylink garage remote from Radio Shack. It needs a 12V power supply for the receiver, and you also need to provide 3-5V to the USB port.  I used a 8xAA battery holder for the 12V, and soldered some wires to the leads for 3 of the batteries to give me 4.5-4.8V.
The Skylink unit basically closes a set of contacts but doesn't push any voltage through them.  You can trigger via the button on the receiver, or with the small remote transmitter.  It couldn't be easier!  The remote unit cost $20.  The battery holder was $2.
I now have a compact wired and wireless remote.  I haven't tested the distance yet, but I would suspect that it is at least 70-80 feet.
Now I just need to buy an S2 IS to go with my SD850.  Anyone have one for sale?  ::)

So how did you wire the receiver end to your power and USB? I am doing your design with a twist. I am adding a Canon RS60 E3 switch to the transmitter via 1/8" female jack so I can get the locking feature and enable the autofocus with the half way press of the button. I am just curious did you wire one of each of the receiver wires to the red and white wires of the USB cable? You can't see the wiring route with the heat shrink. I know it says in the manual for the remote that the wires coming off the transmitter are parallel, so that is why I am curious to how you wired it. With having the provided controller as your trigger, does it allow you to enable auto  focus or does it just release the shutter without focusing?  I really like your idea, that is why I follow but being the creative type like to add my touch.
Your reply would be very appreciated or if any else knows how this wiring schematic looks could you please post. I would love to use this with my Canon A570 IS.
Thank you from the somewhat electrically challenged hobbiest.
Scott
« Last Edit: 11 / April / 2008, 16:00:55 by photoscott »
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Offline photoscott

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #78 on: 11 / April / 2008, 16:16:16 »
Quote from: Barney Fife on 11 / April / 2008, 05:34:03
Check the UBASIC/TutorialScratchpad - CHDK Wiki page and look at the differences between shoot and click/press/release "shoot_half" / "shoot_full" commands. The most simplest USB-Remote scripts only use the shoot command. Using more elaborate script commands is how you get more control over your camera with CHDK. CHDK is not meant to be used just by itself (though it can be, with limits). It's a system of both scripting and the CHDK operating system.


So does that mean a script can be written for the usage of external microphones through the USB port? Does scripting affect the 3.5mm jack at all?
Just getting my feet wet here and liking it.
Thanks for the useful info Barney.

Scott
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Offline Barney Fife

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #79 on: 11 / April / 2008, 17:28:57 »
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« Last Edit: 22 / April / 2008, 17:17:04 by Barney Fife »
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