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building usb-remote-cable

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Offline jetzt

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #20 on: 13 / February / 2008, 10:04:21 »
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I used one which closes the circut only while pressed, when released, it disables the circut.
Works just fine.
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Offline barberofcivil

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #21 on: 13 / February / 2008, 14:10:48 »
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Offline Barney Fife

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #22 on: 13 / February / 2008, 15:09:02 »
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« Last Edit: 22 / April / 2008, 11:21:41 by Barney Fife »
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Offline barberofcivil

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #23 on: 13 / February / 2008, 15:31:52 »
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Offline Barney Fife

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #24 on: 13 / February / 2008, 15:44:57 »
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« Last Edit: 22 / April / 2008, 11:22:00 by Barney Fife »
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[acseven/admin commented out: please refrain from more direct offensive language to any user. FW complaints to me] I felt it imperative to withdraw my TOTAL participation. Nobody has my permission, nor the right, to reinstate MY posts. Make-do with my quoted text in others' replies only. Bye
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Offline rocstar

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #25 on: 22 / February / 2008, 09:44:34 »
I built a cable using a USB cable, Altoids gum box (mini), 9V battery, and LM7805 5V regular.  On an SD850, the 3V button cell was giving me erratic results, and I needed 3.5-5V to trigger. I actually got really good results with a 7.4V battery (by accident), but I wasn't daring enough to keep using it. 

I do have a problem where sometimes when I press my USB remote, I get a half_shoot shutter condition, instead of a full shoot.  The meter box shows up on my screen, but I can't get it to take the shot.  Sometimes it works fine.  I can't tell if the problem is my USB cable which has extremely small wires.  It is the retractable type which doesn't work well for high speed transfer, which is why I sacrificed it.
Anyone else see this problem?
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Offline jetzt

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #26 on: 22 / February / 2008, 09:59:08 »
I don't think that this is a cable problem, that's the big advantage of digital technology: either there is a signal or not,
so if your camera does something there has to be a signal.
What kind of skript do you use? In my opinion this can be the only problem.
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Offline rocstar

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Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #27 on: 22 / February / 2008, 17:54:52 »
I am using the simple USB  script:
@title Remote button
:loop
wait_click 1
is_key k "remote"
if k=1 then shoot
goto "loop"
end

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Offline rocstar

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Re: building usb-remote-cable (Atloids trigger)
« Reply #28 on: 23 / February / 2008, 01:02:43 »
I've done some testing, and my SD850 definitely seems to do better with 3.2V or better on the USB to work right.  With a brand new 2032 at 3.2V it worked for a few shots, and then the 2032 dropped to 3.1V.  Also with a mini-flashlight using 2-LR44 batteries at 3.1V, I could not get it to work.  With 3 LR44s at 4.5V, it worked fine, and with a LIPO at 3.7V it worked fine.
Here are some pictures of my Altoids trigger with a 5V regulator.  The erratic problem I was haven't hasn't resurfaced, but my camera battery was running low, so maybe that was the problem.  It's a little bigger than I wanted, but until I get a mini-flashlight which uses 3 LR44s this will have to do.
« Last Edit: 23 / February / 2008, 01:04:54 by rocstar »
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databoy

Re: building usb-remote-cable
« Reply #29 on: 23 / February / 2008, 23:03:43 »
Regarding usb remote control; the following electronics sites in Australia have some information on infra red devices:

http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=Z1611#

Infra-red Detector:
Jaycar Electronics

I have not used the devices; therefore I cannot supply any more information. Both companies sell kit sets and components. I have purchased components from both companies; they are both reliable and helpful. An email to their customer service department may give you the circuits and technical details.
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